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Fluid film is quite popular here and there are shops who will do the job for you. They offer a warranty against rust as long as you come back every 18 months for a re-apply, it's lifetime for cars newer than 3 years and 10 years for older cars. And it's not a [censored] warranty with lots of...

I do it in the fall when changing over to winter tires. My logic is that I want the oil to be as fresh as possible in winter as the conditions are most demanding for the oil then. Not only is the temperature colder but it's like 90% stop-start city driving and the engine gets proper warm maybe...

Originally Posted By: PimTac As mentioned above, watching them pour the actual brand of oil in is the proof you are getting what you want. In OP's video they changed what was in the jugs as well, so you apparently have to make sure it's sealed. I don't understand why such a shop would bother...

This EU oil is supposed to be "clingy", but I don't know if it's better than other synthetics. It's available in several grades and specs.

Originally Posted By: stockrex make sure you check all the gaps between the panels, headlight, hood etc, they should be consistent and match the other side. This guy is right, I had to take my Prius back three times to the dealer before the body work was acceptable after a drunk lady decided...

Type 1 diabetic here, great job dropping those pounds! Just wanted you add you might have insulin resistance, especially if you're overweight. See this link: http://www.healthline.com/health/diabetes/insulin-resistance-symptoms If this is the problem, it should improve as you're losing weight...

Originally Posted By: PimTac Many drivers use 0w-20 oil in places like Arizona, Florida, Nevada, etc. For normal driving , 0w-20 will do well. If the demands on the engine are hard like tracking, towing, etc then the argument for a thicker grade is plausible. Yes, but does the owners manual...

Originally Posted By: Nissan101 What if my car recommends 20w50 for my temperature or should i put a 0w20 no matter what.....-_- No, if you live in a very warm area and your manufacurer recommends 20W50 you should stick with thick oils. Please do not take OP's post as anything conclusive. He...

Originally Posted By: funflyer Complicated? Hardly! Yes, the battery is just a battery.. and the hybrid drivetrain is very simple, it's just a planetary gearset and a neat trick with electric motors to make it variable drive It is less mechanically complicated than a 4-speed automatic...

Doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it, but definitely not an extended OCI filter. Filter pleats seems kinda short even considering the compact outer dimensions of the filter and the pleats seem quite generously spaced. I'd definitely add a few more cents and get a better filter if I was...

Originally Posted By: Paul_1970 No problem at all. Your car's maker based the servicing interval upon oil available in 1995. Things have changed massively in two decades. You can go 7500 easily on one oil fill. 7500 miles still sounds extremely conservative to me, my 1999 Toyota owners manual...

Yeah I had the same issue when abandoning iOS, had to sync my photos multiple times because it would skip stuff. However I left it charging and on WiFi overnight and it actually managed to sync everything automatically.

Awesome, thanks for the video. Great channel that one. I just need a feeler gauge with thinner blades then I'll get right on it.

Originally Posted By: Kamele0N Originally Posted By: Hyrde This 9 year old Honda fires first pull with no choke and the pull is so light! That low compression start system really works, not just marketing there. My 190cc Briggs powered snow blower, which is a very expensive model with way...

Well the mower didn't smoke at all today when starting it, and it runs fine. Sharpened the blade and was able to figure out how to tension the drive belt and this thing will probably service my lawn for years, great little motor. The fuel leakage and oil seeping into the combustion chamber...

Sounds like you're maintaining your mower very well OneEyedJack. I've also ran whatever 5W-30 or 0W-30 API SL+ synthetic I can find on clearance in my old Toyota Echo, which was also sparingly maintained before I bought it from my sister, but it doesn't burn any oil at all between yearly oil...

Originally Posted By: bubbatime As a general rule, I never use synthetic oil in older, un-maintained equipment. I've seen time and time again that the rings are shot and it just smokes like crazy when using synthetic. For some reason, conventional oil doesn't smoke or smokes less in worn...

Originally Posted By: MichiganMadMan Did you tip it on it's side to change the oil? I have had small engines smoke like mad when they were at an angle that they aren't normally operated at. The fuel going missing certainly didn't help the situation. When you say you drained it, do you mean it...

Hi, I just purchased an old beat up mower with a Honda 190cc engine for peanuts. The engine oil had brown streaks, likely some combination of fuel and water contamination. I swapped it out with whatever I had on the shelf, which was a Shell ECT C2/C3 0W-30. I assumed it would be fine because...

Compression is (pulley side) 190-180-180-180 (flywheel side) no change with a little oil in cylinders. Old engine was 180 180 150 180 (dry) 180 180 180 180 with a little oil in cylinders