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Thanks, all, for an informative thread. I have granite countertops at my current house and the house we are planning to purchase has Formica countertops circa the mid '90s that doesn't look great, so I'm going to upgrade. Before this thread, I thought that quartz was a stone similar to...

So, this was terrible. The 75W90 plus 8oz of Lubegard shifted worse than the Pennzoil Synchromesh. I had problems with the synchos in multiple gears. I dumped it after about 500 miles and bit the bullet on the $40/quart Porsche stuff. Shifting is back to where it should be now.

My quart of Lubegard Heavy Duty Gear Protectant arrived today. The bottle says to put in 3oz per quart of gear oil, so considering that the 911's 6-speed is supposed to take 2.7 quarts, I'll put in about 8oz. Unless anyone chimes in otherwise before I get the project done tonight. LOL

When you say a "shot" of HD Gear Protectant, do you literally mean like a shot glass worth of fluid? My '02 996 Cabrio has 41K on it. I replaced what I assume was the stock fluid at 40K with Pennzoil Synchromesh because the shift into third at high-RPM high-load conditions felt rubbery. Cold...

Here's the UOA you referred to, in case anyone else wants to read it: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...;gonew=1#UNREAD The 6.1L Hemi in the SRT8 is reputedly a lot harder on oil than many other engines, so while M1 0W40 might have been good for 12K+ in that Saab, I'll start out a bit...

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL 4-wheeler/motorcycle oil???? Yup. The composition is apparently very similar to the APO 10W40--high levels of anti-wear additives and no friction modifiers, but has a wider viscosity range. Several people on BITOG have posted car UOAs with what appear to be...

I'm a member at 300cforums.com. Just figured BITOG was a better place to post about oil-specific stuff--most other forums don't get nearly in depth about oil. I'm going to sample the M1 0W40 at 6K miles and decide whether to change it or leave it at that point. I was safely going 10K-11K OCIs...

Well, Autozone has the $32.99 5-quarts and filter special going on, so Mobil1 0W40 wins by virtue of being significantly cheaper and a good alternative. Not ruling out Amsoil for the next change, though.

I also saw this post that describes how to tell if an oil is likely to shear. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=722229#Post722229 AMO 10W40 is 14.5 / 4.3 = 3.37 Mobil1 0W40 is 13.5 / 3.8 = 3.55 So they are pretty close, for sure, and unlikely to have too...

Originally Posted By: fdcg27 I'd use M1 0W-40. TDT is much thicker at lower temps than the 0W-40. The difference isn't all that huge at 40C, but how big is the difference at 0C? I haven't seen numbers for 0C. (The AMO 10W40 is thinner than TDT 5W40 at 40C, so it should be better at low temps.)...

I was originally debating between Mobil1 0W40 and TDT 5W40--the 5W40 seems to be a much better candidate for extended OCIs compared to the 0W40, at least based on how Mobil markets it. However, I've been leaning towards the Amsoil AMO 10W40 because it's thinner at 40C than the TDT 5W40...

Posting this stuff for my reference, as I'm trying to decide for sure which oil to run in my SRT8 (and in my hot-rodded LT1 wagon). Mobil1 5W40 TDT 100C - 14.5 40C - 97.9 TBN - 10.7 HTHS - 3.8 VI - 153 Mobil1 0W40 100C - 13.5 40C - 75 TBN - 11.8 HTHS - 3.8 VI - 185 Mobil1 15W50 100C - 18 40C...

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8 I have owned my SRT8 since August of 05. Note that the manual specifically recommends 6k miles for normal service, 3k miles for severe. Under no circumstances should the car be run for long OCI's as there are fuel dilution issues on this motor from rich tuning...

So far I haven't found a solid answer in all of my searching, so I figured I'd quit lurking and post. My wife's car is a new-to-her '06 300C SRT8 with ~33K miles on it. The previous owner says the oil was last changed around 29K, so there's a couple more K left before the next oil change. The...

I read the "best motorcycle oil" thread and all it seemed to do was create more questions. There was one guy who said "these two oils are the best because they didn't shear out of grade in my tests" and some people seemed to accept that as gospel, but there's more to oil than shear stability...

Thanks, hate2work. I came up with it a decade ago or so. I realize that a 0-rated oil is only really necessary for very cold starts, but it will still flow better during cold starts than a 10-rated oil. I've been eyeballing this chart: http://www.widman.biz/English/Tables/Graph-motors.html At...

Thanks for the quick replies. I figured that theoretically the 10w40 would be more Shea stable than the 0w40 but I was hoping for some proof. I havent been able to find any uoas on the 0w40 and not a great deal on the 10w40.

I've been thinking about switching from a 15W50 to an oil that will flow better in the cold in my Buell 1125R (and probably in my Daytona 675 and CBR600F2 as well). The big concern with 40-weight oils in bikes is their shear stability and I want to make sure whatever I use will hold up. The...