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MolaKule, I think that you're pretty safe. One thing that I've discovered is that although the major oil companies have catalogs of great products, they don't want to SELL them to you. Call up your local Pennzoil distributor and ask him for some of their Gearplus GL-4, or call your local...

Triple_Se7en and 97tbird, I don't think that my distributor (Orlando area) has a web site, at least not one with a sales/order system. Anyone can walk in off the street and purchase from a local distributor - they'll charge you retail pricing, and not wholesale if you don't have a business. The...

Thanks, Goose.

My local Valvoline distributor informed me that VSOT (Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment) has been renamed Valvoline Professional Series Oil Treatment. The part number is similar. The old part number was "066" and the new part number is "VP066." On the back label is the comment: "For Professional...

Does anyone have any experience with Shaeffer's #148? From the tech data package on Shaeffer's site, it looks great, as an alternative to #131 or Fuel Power. Does anyone know the packaging sizes - the tech data package omits that. It's quite concentrated at 1 litre for ever 3000 litres of gasoline.

Metroplex, For what it's worth, I had a 302 with the 2-barrel carb in a 1969 Fairlane. That carb had a rubber diaphram in the base of the carb that was supposed to sense intake manifold vacuum. When that diaphram tore, it dumped raw gas into the intake manifold - especially since it got a...

This point is probably moot by now in this discussion, but the reason that the Canton Racing pre-lubers are used in racing is just in case the G-forces pull the oil away from the pickup in the oil pan, you still have oil pressure - they run in parallel with the mechanical pump.

Motorcraft filters are Purolator Premium Plus, and they're about the same price. I've disected comparable models of each, and they're identical.

In response to Bror Jace's questions about break-in and driving habits - fairly gentle, no redline or hard driving. This was my first manual shift car, and I was pretty careful, although not graceful, for the first year or so. It's a fun car and enjoys being driven hard, but it took a while...

In response to Al's questions about driving history - primarily daily commute - 50 miles round trip, combination of expressway and stop and go, plus two 500 mile (roundtrip) trips. Very few short trips of only a couple of miles.

Titan Labs 2001 Miata with 12K total miles, 3K on this sample Viscosity 10.6 cST @100C SAE Grade 30 Fuel Soot 0.0% Water N Fuel Dilution N Antifreeze N Chromium 1 Copper 2 Iron 6 Lead 0 Tin 0 Aluminum 2 Silicon 14 Antimony 0 Barium 2 Boron 66 Cadmium 0 Calcium 762 Magnesium 1379 Molydbenum 0...

Titan Labs '99 Cutlass w/45498 miles total, 1468 on this sample. 3.1L V6 Three months, December '02 to March '03. Short trips (2-3 miles) to work and back. Viscosity 11.1 @ 100C SAE Grade 30 @ 100C Fuel Soot 0.0% Water N Fuel N Antifreeze N Chromium 0 Copper 17 Iron 16 Lead 1 Tin 0 Aluminum 1...

Titan Labs '95 Aerostar 111K miles 3679 Miles on Chevron Supreme 10W40, in almost exactly three months. Viscosity 11.4 CST 100C Fuel Soot 0.0% SAE Grade 30 @ 100C Water N Fuel N Antifreeze N Chromium 0 Copper 2 Iron 14 Lead 4 Tin 0 Aluminum 1 Silicon 4 Antimony 2 Barium 0 Boron 2 Cadmium 0...

To Metroplex: 1. Baldwin price $3.91 2. I didn't say it very well, but I've read the Minimopar study that promoted the idea that the Motorcrafts were really PureOnes. The Motorcraft that I opened wasn't a PureOne - it didn't look anything like the open PureOne in my neighborhood auto parts...

1. The SuperTech was one of the new black ones. There was room for a larger filter element, if they had wanted to put one. 2. I also cut open a new Motorcraft FL1A and a Baldwin B2. The Baldwin won that. The Baldwin was a sturdier filter than the Motorcraft (Purolator Premium Plus, I believe)...

There's been a lot of comments about the value of SuperTech oil filters - decent quality and low cost. But it's what's inside that matters. I cut open a SuperTech ST6607, which is the filter for my Mazda, and a Mazda US OEM filter, made by Tennex, which is what I've been using. I'm sticking...

I have an apology to make. After that last post, what did I do? I spent $12 at Harbor Freight for a pneumatic cutoff tool, and came home and started slicing open new filters. I don't look forward to opening a used filter this way - 20,000 rpm may have used oil all over the room!

I opened two filters this weekend - a Motorcraft FL1A and a Baldwin B2, the Baldwin equivalent. The Baldwin is better made, with a larger filter element with more pleats and larger physical dimensions. The compression spring in the Baldwin isn't a "C" sheet metal spring, but a real coil spring...

Racor has some spin on filters with removable, cleanable stainless steel filter elements. These units have a sensor in them to connect to a dashboard light that tells you that your bypass valve just opened. This tells you it's time to clean the filter. Does anybody have any experience with these?

The Baldwin folks are very helpful. A phone call got me a full set of their books - product guide, cross-references, etc. Several pounds of books arrived about two weeks after the call. I haven't seen a Hastings filter, but the Baldwins appear to be very well made - heavy duty is the phrase...