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which PSI rating might "quiet" my clatter at startup, the higher or lower PSI relief valve (if that matters)?? thanx, and any other filter/brand #'s for my Miata folks ?? (do love them Delco's since I'm really a GM man...)

that's why I frequent this site! 3 minutes and 2 responses, BTW would the Pure One (think it's "PL" # correspond the same?? Would you happen to know why Pureolator changed the PN in the 2003 vs 2004 catalog? thanx

sorry no walmarts local see notes above to available brands..other PN's please...THANX!

GI Joes doesn't stock the "correct" (per catalog) PN (either old PN or new PN) for Purolator Pure One for my 2003 Miata w/ 1.8 motor... 1) What Pure One PN is "meets spec/acceptable" for this car??? 2) My other choices are: AC/Delco, Bosch, Napa Gold or Silver or "standard" Pureolator...

I think you'd save some bucks and do "great" w/M1 either 10w-30 or the new 0 W-40 and a HQ (Delco UPF for example) filter, diddo for M1 when the tranny/rear end requires service if they specify 80W-90 gear lube...IMO...

gonna rebuild my Pontiac W72 400cu in motor, thinking...(danger/warning/etc.,) anyway, how 'bout "break in" on the Mobil dino/Chevron dino Diesel oils?? (Delvac/Delo I believe) for 500 miles, change it w/ filter and then again another 1000 miles oil/filter THEN switch to M1? (15W-50 or 10w-30)...

being "discontinued" here too, just picked up several quarts for 1.99~ at "GI Joes"...believe w/ the "new atf specs" coming out soon Valvo will introduce a "new" brand/bottle that meets the new spec...just my thought, many builders of 4L60E's in our national SS club have advised NOT using 100%...

typically a "good running" car (smog/inspectable..) that doen't have anything "broken" and "looks ok" is usually worth a minimum of $1K "retail"..then start subtracting for broken items, missing pieces, really looks bad, shoddy interior, repairs needed, etc., the key is the new buyer being able...

BTW I run the comp cam "muscle car blueprint" Ram Air III in my '77 Trans am w/ Comps 1.52 rollers and arms..car had been on Castrol 10W-40, was thinking of Delvac or Delo (same price and cheaper than Penzoil or Rotella locally) but, never used "diesel oil" in a gas motor, since this car sits...

Older car, rebuilt motor, only 2K year annual driving, 1x year oil/filter change, almost always run till hot, no "cold/short trips"..1)diesel oil (Delvac or Delo both about $6.79 gallon) or 2) high mileage oil (which brand??), 3) dino or 4) synthetic..Why?? appreciate the inputs???

DOT 5 is SILICONE Brake fluid, don't use it unless every drop of old fluid has been removed, typically, for street cars, a HQ DOT 4 Fluid has a higher wet boil (dry too, but wet matters most when not "racing") thus better "life" by not absorbing as much water..The Valvoline DOT 4 is good stuff...

gulf in NJ at .299 (premium) is all my old mine can recollect, $10 filed the family's 383 powered Dodge unless it was below about 1/8 tank...so I'm 44`

I'm not a scientist and I don't play one on the net..I'm sure Amsoil is good/great stuff, I know many fleets in TX used it, personally, I think it's too much $$ so I'm cheap yet still think M1 is overpriced but, I use it to get 5K OCI's on low mileage cars (1x annually O/Filter change), 7.5K on...

geez, I remember using ARCO "Graphite 10W-40" in my 273 cu in Dodge Coronet, now I feel dated, since I worked in a "full service" station, probably most fun on a job almost ever, minor tune up's, lubes, oil, tires, etc., and lots of pumping .599 CHEVRON gas.. what about oil for my Pontiac 400...

The lazy man's guilt trip, anyway, I use this on my "drivers" and have for a few years after getting sick of water spots living in Tx/calif...anybody else use it? I put it on my paint/glass/rubber/wheels/undereneath/door jambs/inderhood/fenders..literally everywhere w/ a new car and apply 2x a...

somebody (not me ) needs to get a good spark plug book w/ cross references and heat range charts and see IF the Bosch (especially the +4's) are perhaps stretched by same part number being used over too wide a heat range...?? Maybe that's why they work well on some applications (the heat range...

ya know the original W72 Q jet flowed 800 (!) CFM, this one's in the box as it couldn't pass emmissions so a new Q jet was installed (now I got two), gonna "put 'em together", make it right and #'s matching and have the carb shop in Fife WA, jet, scope, snif and correct, the one on it runs nice...

the delco plats often "lose the tips", I've seen (back in '01~) as many as 1 in 8 "bad out of the box", overall good plugs but, w/ tough installation on many cars, "doing it twice" isn't worth it, some shops swear by the Bosch +4 on GM engines, others say the heat ranges are "too generic", I...

I used to use NUFinish on my daily drivers years ago, that stuff would literally "repel paint" (was spray vandalized" it virtually wiped off)! used 2 coats a year, Pain to put/on off and the residue was awful, I'm lazy now, use Durashine on my driver Miata, put it on glass, vinal top, rubber...

You should be getting full advance "in" much earlier, stock 10'base advance probably got you in the area of maybe 32' full timing but the advance was slow, you really need to measure the timing with an adjustable light so you can see TOTAL advance and at what rpm it's "all in", my guess is with...