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Follow-up: Found the leak! I was seconds away from giving up then saw extra bubbles. The problem I found with the soap method is I had bubbles everywhere so didn't understand how I was going to find bubbles from a leak. But as the initial bubbles subsided, the leak created new ones.

Any suggestions for finding a slowish leak? I've been losing 1-2 psi per day but haven't found any obvious leaks. My plan is to use a soapy water mixture and add air. How much pressure do you use? More than the standard pressure I run it at? It is a p-metric a/t tire. Any other suggestions?

I don't see a discernable date on the jug. However, I think the tan bottles are newer. The bottles were always silver when I bought it in the past.

Here was an earlier discussion about the cross labeling. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/acea-c3-oils-being-sold-as-meeting-acea-a3-b4.281204/

I just picked up a 5qt jug of Total INEO 5w30 from Advanced Auto Parts for my VW 2.0l TDI. It rang up at the register @ $20.65. it is marked on the floor near $50. I don't know if it is a special sale or what, but will be going back to get more soon.

The one O'Reilly tried to give me wasn't even a close approximation of the OEM cap. Their system pulled up 'normal' style cap with big threads. It wasn't even the same diameter - it wouldn't even fit into the opening. The only replacement ones I have found that are the correct style all have...

The other main cause for this error is the evap purge valve which I understand is a pretty common fail point. Cost for the purge valve is similar to the gas cap but is a little more work but doesn't look like it takes too long. Any guesses as to which is the more likely cause? Ideally yes...

I'm getting an evap code error on my daughter's 2009 VW Rabbit. I thought I'd start with replacing be the gas cap as an easy starting point. I picked up a cap from the parts store, got home and got it out, but it clearly isn't the same one. I took it back, the parts guys (at Oreilly) couldn't...

I agree, my feeling is if it meets the spec, it should be fine. I wasn't sure if I was just missing anything though. I haven't seen too many VW people talk about this option.

I've found 2 Motul options that are 507.00 VW compatible - "Specific" and "8100 X-Clean+" https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/specific-504-00-507-00-5w30 https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/8100-x-clean-5w30--2 So far I've found the X-Clean + to be the cheapest 507.00 available on...

I can maybe see some McLarens being driven to, and around, some ski resorts like Aspen or St Moritz. I saw one on the tollway near O'Hare last December. I didn't notice snow tires though.

Thanks! Your description is just how I imagined the job would go by looking at it. It's 12 degrees here with snow on the driveway now and I only have an unheated, small, one-car garage. For 1.5~ of labor, I'll stay out of the cold and have a (less sketchy) shop do it. I have to put some brake...

Originally Posted By: JC1 If you want it done cheaper DIY. The shops go by the book rate plain and simple. Even if the guy could fly through it in 90 mins, the savings don't get passed onto you. When I was researching doing to the timing belt for my 98 Sienna, a mechanic on the garage journal...

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4 The flat rate labor times are listed in the repair service information like AllData or Mitchell. Whoever has a paid subscription to a service information source will be able to tell you what the book time is for your Kia Sedona. You can even get your own...

1.4 hours seems more reasonable.

I haven't been able to find any repair manual or other instruction online for a water pump replacement for a 2012 Kia Sedona. Since I'm probably not going to do the job myself I wasn't planning on ordering a manual. There is a very audible howl coming from the engine. I couldn't pinpoint the...

Originally Posted By: jhellwig Originally Posted By: HerrStig Originally Posted By: jhellwig Stop using the clutch in that gear if you wanna keep getting by. Just exactly how does THAT work? You only need the clutch to get the vehical going. When you let off the gas you can slip it out of gear...

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm Some fresh mtf might be all you need. Unless the previous owner pounded the holy [censored] out of the tranny,I could never see synchros wearing out with that little mileage. I will freely admit I beat the snot out of it. The 3rd gear synchro problem is a...

The transmission in question is a Ford MTX75 in an 05 Focus. As is typical with this trans, the 3rd gear synchro is shot. You have to shift really slowly into third or it grinds badly. It has progressively worsened over the last couple of years. I'm sure it still has the original fluid which is...

The car, 05 Dodge Durango, has a Watts linkage that is attached to the rear end. The diff cover has a boss cast into it that the link bolts to. I wouldn't mind a nice looking aluminum cover, but I'd have to loose Watts link. Hence the syphoning option. see here...