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It's the I/C cast iron bore engine. Delvac MX 15w-40 has been used for the last 5 OCIs I think. Before that few years of Maxlife 10w-40. For what was used prior to that, I can't recall. I'd guess any old 10w-30/40.

Another season over and she's sleeping through the winter. Fuel stabilized and engine fogged as usual. This fall was the 28th time though. The thing just keeps on going, I'd estimate at least 800hrs on it by now. Valvetrain makes a bit of a racket (flathead) and it likes to sip oil, but...

Fuel economy has improved quite a bit this year. Unfortunately it's the only thing that has.

Was the CEL lit when it happened? Is your MAF-sensor ok? If there were no issues the adaptation should've taken care of the mixture. Fuel pressure ok?

MoS2 containing oils are pretty much black.

Overkill, are you sure the closed loop temp is so high? It seems odd because it would mean the cats aren't working 100% for a loong time after startup.

I don't know if it's similar in all cars, but in saabs coolant temps over 60C (140F) are considered "warm". That is when all temp dependant warmup enrichments stop. Of course the engine is in closed loop as soon as the o2 warms up, below a certain load.

So there the winter went then. Here in Southern Finland its now +3C outside and no sign of first snow yet. Miserable drizzle and fog for weeks now. And we're supposed to be north, at 60N and all..

As others have said, find a large area where you can safely practice. Do braking, steering and all kind of stuff. Get the car into a slide with the handbrake (if it's a lever) and get a feeling for how to correct it. I wouldn't suggest going into traffic without any experience if it's snowy.

On the subject of leaking/bulging caps, I've cured a non-functioning monitor by replacing few caps. None of them had any signs of failure that could be seen with the naked eye, but all had lost about a half of their rated capacitance. Needless to mention where they were made...I replaced them...

The rules are ridiculous these days. DRS is a good example. It would be ok if it was totally controlled by the driver, and not a "You shall pass here" type of deal. Then it'd be interesting to see who's got the balls to take corners with the flap open.

Well, I think 98RON is the highest octane widely available so the tuner must have considered that. The engine has knock control so I wouldn't worry about that. You could ask from the place you got the tune?

After some googling, it seems that the transaxle is a Peerless 2300 series unit and it does indeed take gear oil. 2 qt is apparently the correct amount. Internals look beefy, nice http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/17/231920.jpg

It does have drain and fill plugs on it, wouldn't that suggest oil?

I've been thinking of changing the gearbox oil for quite some time now. The tractor is from '87 and I guess the oil has never been changed. Gearbox is a fully manual unit (as in non-hydro). Few questions I've been pondering: 1. Correct oil type 2. Best oil to avoid leaks in the future with old...

I have an oil temp gauge hooked up on a Briggs flathead twin. At 20-25 C ambient the temps run 120-140 C depending on the loading. It seems that the flatheads run way hotter than OHVs. Well you can always calculate the visc with a calc, like the one on this site if that's what you mean? About...

If you're into forced induction and I5 sounds, here's a clip you'll like: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fA3-wXXW6ok

It's fine. Everything is "cold" if you can touch it bare handed in these matters

Ok, the average seems to be around 10 cents here. Same thing on the tiering.

Niiice work fellas! Keep crunching those MF WUs on your MF rigs. It's all for the better of mankind isn't it? I was wondering the other day, what's the average price of kWh in the US? Would be nice to know. I apologize for the beer effect