Search results

Checked the hose & filter last night. The hose is intact (although oxidizing and needs replacement). The filter in the airbox, on the other hand, is old, dry and full of sandy dirt. The recess the foam breather filter sits in had quite a bit of fine sand in it. Sure looks like this is the...

Good idea about the breather hose, I do have the 1.9L engine.

TooSlick, Your comment about sandstorms is on target. I did a quick once-over on the intake & PCV this morning. While nothing jumped out at me concerning the intake (I'll need to pull it off and look more closely to be sure), the PCV valve grommet looks loose, and is covered in sandy, oily...

I hope not. I bought it w/15k miles on it, it had dino oil changes until 25k when I went to M1. When I changed the timing belt at 60k I pulled the valve cover off. It was spotless, clean aluminum. No varnish/sludge etc. I think I'm getting dirt in past the PCV grommet. Maybe a bit past the...

Hey Rick, I have the yellow bug guts discoloration also. I'll see what letting the sun bleach it out over time does.

PCV is the original. Still rattles. Probably time to replace regardless. Air filter was replaced about 15k miles ago. I Didn't have a TBN run.

So, what to do about lead? Different oil (5w40 T&SUV, 0w40 M1...). Or, am I just asking too much. Car is my drive to work beater, 12 miles one way, 8 miles of which are freeway. The rest of the miles are short trip around town driving. Once in a great while I'll take the car on a long freeway...

I'm waiting on GC until the new 05 formulation proves to be as good as the earlier green stuff. The 5W-40 T&SUV oil is a good suggestion.

That is depressing.

Thanks. I hope it's a distribution issue as Buster says and not a marketing decison by Walmart et al not to carry this grade.

OK, I give. Looked for this oil at Autozone, Walmart & Kragen. No go. Has anyone seen this grade for sale? It looks to be the perfect solution for me, a single oil that meet the needs of my three vehicles. And I *thought* I'd be able to buy it from Walmart. I'd use 0W-40 European car Mobil 1...

I also have a 94 Supra with similar mileage, ~450 rwhp, 19-20 psi on the stock turbos, and have much lower wear numbers using the same oil over similar OCI's. I run 100 octane 24/7 in my car. What octane do you use? You may be hammering your crank & rod bearings with detonation given the boost...

What's done to your car? Stock twins, single? How much boost do you run, what gas (pump premium, 100+ octane). How do you drive it, road race, daily driver, drag racer?

Those are really scary bearing wear numbers. Check the thread below for 3 years worth of my M1 10W30 results. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000598#000000

The 0W-40 interests me also. I would not go as thick as a 20-50 (or even a 15-50), I don't believe the clearances are large enough, nor does the engine oil run hot enough to need 50W. The 0W-40 might provide a bit more bearing protection than the 30W without the downsides of a 50W oil.

I never dry crank the motor using the ignition. I pull the starter relay from the fuse box underhood and jumper across 2 terminals. This spins the motor w/o any ignition, fuel etc. Tranny in neutral. I disconnected the neutral safety switch a while back. [ July 09, 2003, 06:48 PM: Message...

I drag race it, but it's more of a weekend fun car than a race car. The mileage was low the first interval because I fried the clutch (I tried a metal 6 puck. It welded itself to the flywheel & pressure plate the second time I had it at the track)and it took me a while to get around to...

Thanks for the welcome. The MKIV is a keeper.

I know I used SS this change, but it's going to be a long wait for the next UOA unless I do one at 6 months. Any opinion on the drop in lead?

This is a big plus. I've though about trying Redline 10-30, or possibly 10-40, but I'd have to order it. It's nice to just drive down to the local Walmart and pick up the M1 in a 5 qt. jug.