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80psi of oil pressure When you say efficiency are you talking about flow or filtration?

I've been racking my brain researching and I'm going in circles. For a 4 cylinder turbo high reving street engine which filter are you guys choosing? I run GP1 oil if that matters at all...Oil change is between 3-5k.

You've been here 20 years and have an average of 1,500 posts a year... If you don't know this answer, more than likely I cannot help you. And yes it was a typo. Been in back to back meetings today from 8:30am to 4:30pm.

Was talking to Driven oil and they suggested that I stick with 40 weight oil but to move to their GP1 15w40 because it has much better sheer strength.

So (to a point) heavier weight oil is better for internal parts on high stress situations it seems. Again, curious why there are no 10w50 in common oils. There's this https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497868-gp-1-conventional-sae-50.html

Because......You are going the other direction and running thin oil, right?

Ok so you guys are losing me here, I'm not near the oil guy you guys are. I was under the impression that too thick of oil = spun bearings or wear. So apparently I had it backwards...Too THIN of oil (or lack of oil also) will wreck bearings? "Of course they'll work just fine on a heavier...

No engine is "built" for a certain grade. And as long as a 20W winter rating is appropriate for your starting temperature then it is fine. And as others have noted it's not weight it is grade. And it's HT/HS that matters. But the main clearances and such dictate what oil the motor is designed...

Correct

That doesn't matter, but street driven with hard use occasionally

It's a Honda 4 cylinder. It sees 8,500rpms shift point but can rev as high as 9,500rpms. It's turbocharged and sees about 25psi of boost. Power is around 500whp but later will probably go to a bigger turbo and see 700whp. My issue that I have and always have had is the fact that the cam system...

I've always thought that you have to run the weight oil you should run or else you will spin a bearing and your motor will be toast. But I'm here to ask, is that not the case? I've watched this episode and now I have more questions than before and I've also been told by people with similar...

It's a B series Honda motor which is flat tappet. Maybe I should pop the valve cover to check valve lash. Still, why would the noise go away with this oil?

It's almost 3 times as expensive and I change my oil roughly 2,000 miles.

Well now that you mention it, that is an interesting topic. I had been running Fram Ultra filters exclusively but this last oil change I went to Wix XP. But, with that being said I would get 85psi oil pressure with the Fram filters within 1-2 seconds so I don't think that was the issue. The...

I would tend to agree with you, but I don't know how to explain it any differently.

My car is a fully built "racing" motor with forged internals and looser tolerances than factory. The first thing I really noticed which is a rather big difference is that before with either Pennzoil Ultra, Rotella, or VR1 in anywhere from 5W-40 to 10w30 I would have rather loud cold start with...

Can the oil pressure tell you (ballpark) the bearing clearances? Or at least if the weight is correct?

I'm not sure. To be honest I don't have a gauge in cabin and only used this spare gauge I had around for a quick look to answer your question prior. But yes, I'd assume 60ish

Mobil 1 0W-40 Euro forumula My oil pressure seems to be what it should be for this motor. The warm idle is like I said, about 10psi higher than some have reported but this motor is also built with different specs than factory. Seems the relief spring opens at 80psi***