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$3k, especially given “mods” and gas prices these days. To a particularly interested party, if a solid connection, all receipts and full traceability, you might get more, but they will also nitpick surface rust and whatnot.

Surprisingly they have them for $430 for the pair!! I do have to imagine that I can get a hose made up for less, but maybe not much less. I think the custom hoses I had made for my 240d were >$200 back when I had them brazed by a Parker shop. Cooler itself looks perfect. I think that one line...

After 35 years and 210k miles, an oil cooler fitting on my 1991 350SD looks a bit worse for wear. I’m going to have to get the hoses redone, as I understand they’re NLA. I had custom threaded fittings brazed on another set for my 1981 240D by a Parker shop. Thinking to do that again. But...

Rock auto does claim a few high carbon options. Do I want that? The ones they offer are advics: $46 each.

You can see how much more pad was on back then. Must have been 2-3mm.

I have rotors with well over 200k on them. Our odyssey which supposedly has bad brakes, had rotors so fine that I pad slapped and at 120k run like new. I don’t race to red lights or do other stupid things that go against physics, so I tend to get tires and brakes to last much longer than...

This

OE rotors are $91 each. Junk are $16. “Better” like Brembo are $40 each, or Bosch for $30 each. Rock auto has too many to choose.

The alloy wheels cover things up pretty significantly. The rotor wear pattern has existed a long time. I flagged it on here in fact long ago but it was noted that the rears on a hybrid don’t get used much. I let it slide. It may well have been an issue 50k ago, but there was just more pad...

I guess he’s more folksy, but no Gordon Lightfoot?

I was rotating tires and doing a brake fluid flush on my 2015 Accord Hybrid today. It has 112k miles. All original brake components. All silent and everything works great. FWIW haven’t touched anything besides brake fluid flushes. Rotors don’t get swept much especially the rears, but it’s...

2014 odyssey, 2015 accord hybrid

Go back and look at some of the things @MolaKule wrote on the topic. ATF isn’t great in all attributes but it works well for many. There also used to at least be ATF that had higher levels of adds for use in an MT.

My E30 BMW 318i specified that too. Ultimately I went to Amsoil ATF-range MTL and it was great. Redline would lose shift feel after a while. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/successes-with-amsoil-mtf.83270/ OP, Molakule has a good overview used in many threads...

But those have a standpipe in them and a specific fluid level setting protocol.

I can see it being a big help on highway drives over long distances.

I went with Fuchs from FCP for my AFF in my 08. Make sure you have the right stuff to do the AT service. Amsoil SVG in the bags for the diffs.

Wow, awesome! That’s a nice looking car!!

Not exactly the same, but on my old mechanical odometers on my old MB cars, sometimes the speedometer needles get jumpy at low speed, and it’s attributable to a metal bushing where the cable attaches. I used slip 2000 gun oil which is supposed to not gum or gunk up. Not sure you’d use it...