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I don’t trust electric gauges at all until they’ve been verified against a known accurate mechanical gauge. Put a gauge on there and check before worrying about possible causes of high pressure.

The only engines I could see where this could apply are those diesels that use engine oil as part of the fuel system, for example the Ford power stroke, some Cat engines, or stationary engines with a hydraulic governor. Poor oil quality can cause a variety of symptoms on those.

First thing I would do is cut one of these filters open…

Curious what year and engine? I have a 2014 5.3 with original plugs at 80k. Pulled one and they’re nowhere near that worn.

Interesting. Makes sense if you think about it…boost created by the turbo is not “free” energy, instead it is a reflection of the heat absorbed by the turbo. For those saying 1200F is too hot, that’s actually about right for pre-turbo temps under full load. Part of my work involves load...

the OP was being facetious… The inner pad has no material left and the rotors are worn down to the vent slots…

As others have said, check your alternator. I had a GMC Savana work van do this for ages. Then one night a failed alternator left me stranded. Never made the noise again after replacing alternator.

If the P/S line can be modified/adapted you could tap it to NPT

Verify this is for the correct vehicle. Genuine Ford manual: https://www.carmanualsonline.info/ford-sierra-rs-cosworth-1988-1-g-workshop-manual/29 I believe what they’re calling “hub retaining nut” is the axle nut

What I would do is gradually tighten the nut while spinning the wheel. If it’s like a rear wheel bearing that requires endplay adjustment, you’ll know almost right away. With even moderate torque applied the wheel will lock right up.

Ah, ok. I’m guessing the bearing races are made so that when assembled, endplay will be correct. As said above, probably safest to ask the dealer.

Do you have it apart already? That car uses a cartridge type bearing for the front, not individual tapered roller bearings which must be adjusted like on the rear. The torque listed sounds correct for a FWD axle nut. The nut torque is clamping down on the inner bearing race only. The bearing is...

High pressure fuel line connections on 30,000+ psi diesel fuel systems are metal on metal. Sometimes can be a pain to seal up if there are any imperfections on the mating surfaces.

I like it! Wax rings are dirt cheap…gonna try this for my truck frame. Will continue to use bar and chain for harder to reach areas on the underside, and KL73 (Krown) inside body panels.

10 hours under full load, yes. I’d guess maybe 100 hours total in 5 years.

Not sure how long. We believe the oil cooler/filter base was done before my company took over maintenance of the unit maybe 5 yrs ago. Being a stand-by, it only has about 300 hours on it. Only runs at 100% load for 2 hours every year, for testing.

Finally got back to this one today. Tried to beat the piston/rod out from the bottom with marginal success—access was difficult. Having nothing to lose by further damaging the piston, I drilled and tapped the piston crown and pulled it out with a slide hammer. The cause of failure was...

That was my first thought but it turned out to be a clogged piston cooling jet—see my next post.

https://www.flight-mechanic.com/counter-electromotive-force-emf/ This is a good explanation of why not to crank an engine with low battery voltage/low cranking speed.

This is a V8 diesel generator engine I’ve been looking at for work. Engine failure during 100% load test. Number 7 piston got slightly warm. Liner cracked which allowed oil pan to fill with coolant.