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According to Mobile, the shelf life of an opened container is 1 year, so you're probably ok. One way to test is to slowly pour some into a glass- if it separates into layers then it's definitely gone bad.

Originally Posted By: wemay Having 36 posts to this point, "obviously exaggerating" doesn't apply Ok fair enough Honestly though I'm probably not going to stretch this thread out too much longer anyway. Originally Posted By: wemay We have no idea where your thought process is. Maybe I can...

Originally Posted By: KrisZ The dangerous part is that you are thinking that if you use one oil vs. another, it will either destroy the engine or make it live forever. When I say things like "fry my engine" I'm obviously exaggerating. I know any one of them will work, what I'm trying to figure...

Because once in a blue moon I sometimes do take long trips or end up idling in traffic in the summer, and I'd rather not fry my engine doing it. I don't have any emotional attachment to any particular kind of oil, I just want to use whatever is best for my situation, especially since they sell...

Originally Posted By: kschachn Maybe?? The oil you buy in Walmart is the same brand-for-brand that you buy elsewhere. Exxon-Mobil even says so on their website. No one ever has shown different and we've gone over this a thousand times here on BITOG. Sure, I guess, but Lego and others tried to...

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete Why stop at six months? If changing every six months is better, then changing every month or every week should be better yet. I'm trying to have SOME balance between cost and sanity here

Originally Posted By: Quartz Here, let me reword the issue another way and maybe that'll make things easier: It's usually down into the low teens F in the winter here (sometimes below 0) and often gets up to 90+F in the summer. Given that, and given the rest of my issue, assuming I go with...

Originally Posted By: kschachn Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete Now you completely lost me. I think he means the arrows on the oil selection chart in his owner's manual only go that high for the -30 and the -40. Which is what I was getting at with my comment about those charts and being more...

Originally Posted By: mazdamonky If the manual says conventional is good for one year, A maximum of one year (or 7500mi, whichever is first). This implies to me that they want you to change it more often than that (although it doesn't say how much more often). That's one of the reasons I'm...

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete Originally Posted By: Quartz I'm still not 100% sure I understand how oil weights work. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't -30 max out around 85F whereas -40 is good up to 100F? No, it does not mean that. I mean, I know that the -XX is not a direct...

Originally Posted By: mazdamonky I would just run the factory recommended weight conventional for 1 year/5k miles or the factory recommended weight in a synthetic for 2 years/10k miles. See, I'm not sure what to do here. Opinion (both here and others I talk to) seems split between 6months or 12...

Originally Posted By: KrisZ What does your manual state? Honestly not a lot. Normal is conventional 5w-30, but I can switch to synth 0w-30 or 0w-40 if I want. Most of the people in this thread are saying synth, and AFAIK conventional 5w-30 is only good up to about 85F, so I thought 0w-40 was...

Originally Posted By: KrisZ So unless your owner's manual shows less then 6 months OCIs for severe service Part of the problem is that it doesn't have hardly any info for service schedules, not even a "typical" one. It just says no more than 7500mi/12mon, and that I can swap to synth 0w-30 or...

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete You don't need Xw-40 grade, unless you take your car to the track, IMO. I'm still not 100% sure I understand how oil weights work. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't -30 max out around 85F whereas -40 is good up to 100F? It occasionally gets into the 90's in...

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete What are the lowest temps that you experience at which the engine will be started? That depends- I'm pretty sure the garage never gets below freezing, so usually the first start isn't that bad. However if I'm parked outside it could easily be sub-zero F in the...

Originally Posted By: Wolf359 I'm surprised no one has started boycotting Amazon yet, they have some pretty brutal practices that I think are even worse than what Walmart is known to do. Well, I think all large companies are evil to some degree, it's unavoidable. The problem with walmart though...

Originally Posted By: KrisZ The car can be there to serve you or you can serve your car, the choice is yours. It's kind of both in my case. I can't get by without one, but I realize that my use case isn't what gas engines were designed for so I have to make some sacrifices vis-à-vis...

Originally Posted By: bigt61 If you use M1 OW-40, I'd change every 5 years or at 5k miles if that happens first after a few years. Don't make any special trips just to warm up oil, that's crazy. Eeek. Five years?? I don't trust that. And 5k miles at my rate would be even longer.

Right OK, advance and napa, forgot about them. What about target? Are they even worth looking at? There are a few targets near here.

Originally Posted By: Nate1979 As 69GTX mentioned make sure and take advantage of the rebates going on right now. Years of hassle and pseudo-scams have left me sour about rebates, so I tend to ignore them and get whatever has the lowest list price. I'll nose though that subforum and see what I...