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Cube 2009-2014 usually requires Nissan oil or Texaco ETL8997B 75w80. If not available you can use 75w80 GL4. So Honda MTF is compatible. If your manual says 75w85 GL4 you can use anyway Honda MTF or if you prefer other 75w85 GL4 like KIA/Hyundai MTF, Castrol BOT 402, Castrol Syntrans 75w85, FCA...

I mean it's safe re-use 2-3 times without leak for me.

Seems it uses washer with rubber like mine. I don't change it always, may be every 2-3 oil changes, after it starts to leak, so you know.

If you don't want to play with coolant, at least put Norma Torro WF, it's the best "normal" clamp.

From technical side Nissan says 75w85 GL4, so it's your start point. It must be MTF00P (older) or MTF00NP (newer) both 75w85 GL4. Ravenol should be ok. After you must know there are different GL4 oils with different additive.

Really interesting all your uoa history, thanks.

It's right. VW fees are about 1.300-3.500€ for typical approvals. It works in different way. Big cost is from homologators, they are big base oil producers and additive producers (or both). Approval is commercial permission only, big boys make the chemistry and rest buy base oils and that...

Ok then it was MoS2. Yeah Si/Na/Mo were significative.

Really good results for 16.000 kms... Do you know exact M1 model or you used any additive? Molybdenum is high.

And I know many gearboxes running over 200k kms without issues with original oil, it's irrelevant, it works yeah. Now get oil life data and internals wear and compare, then you understand it doesn't work well, "works" only.

Simply because it's not real, a eco-commercial lie, most of C3 with 15k km (9k miles) are died from chemical point, most 30k kms announced service (18k miles) are automatically cutted by car ecu around 20-25k kms (12-15k miles). Even strong B4 oils suffers from 20-25k kms with stronger additive...

If A5/B5 works ok and doesn't burn it, go ahead with w30 A5/B5. You can use 0-5 w30 C3 and 0-5 w40 C3 with shorter kms. You can use 0-5 w40 B4 full kms, some 5w40 B4 like Shell or Motul works with low visco, similar to 0w40 and w30 B4/C3.

Usually natural VII from base has better behaviour than added after, but is not easy to formulate. FS both formulations have very good uoa results and good VI, so nothing to object for me.

It's a mix, mainly PAO + II+/III or PAO+GTL

It seems good. No problem 4-5k miles, but I'd check visco after. PD: Laguna Seca :D

Thanks.

Visco is little high, but not problem, could be labo error too. Rest is very good.

I would stay with 0w20 or try 0w30.

Well manual says... LF 75w or equivalent = 75w GL4+ or GL5 (who says 75w says 75w80 too, but no GL4) What old manual says... 75w90 GL5 So clear, it's GL5 75w90 classic spec and 75w GL5 eco spec.

If Toyota says GL4 or GL5 75w then that BG is ok. If Toyota says LF 75w only, it's different, because LF is GL4+ / GL5.