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Plain old plywood gussets were allowing the use of trusses before this connector existed. The connector did not cause the demand for larger houses.

For that being true, you sure like to participate.

The Dodge in my sig gets new gears this winter. With the granny low, and still super short 2nd out of the NP-435, it's far more capable than anything I'd throw at it with a 4.10 rear. Moving to 3.54 so I can get some highway capability. Feel like these old trucks were all about the numbers...

As someone has previously mentioned, many times these symptoms are a problem on the suction side of things. Pump-to-pickup tube leak.

Gearing down isn't an option. These drive lines are too inefficient. On the Panthers, mileage was barely competitive with 2.73s. a 2011 GMQ is probably as poor performing and efficient as a Buick LeSabre from 2 decades earlier. 3.55s in the CVPIs makes them downright terrible, down the pickup...

I've had a few for various reasons. Common problems for mine: -Spark plug ejection. 1998 and 2003 5.4's. the 1998 happened pulling a trailer on vacation. Had no choice but cram the self tapping Dorman insert in it in an AutoZone parking lot to continue. A few years later, that repair would fail...

I think it's important. My last 4 vehicles were from different environments: 2011 Crown Vic from FL 1974 Dodge from Utah 2008 Tahoe from TN 2015 Merc from CA Worth all of the hassle.

^^^Exactly. As cheap as new rotors are, getting them cut isn't worth the time. Also, where I live, rotors don't reliably last a second set of pads before they rot through from the inside out.

Binding slip yoke? Remember, even though you are in neutral, the DS is still spinning and slip yoke still sliding as the suspension compresses/unloads during weight transfers (like stopping). Either way, given the age/warranty concerns, I'd take it to the dealer.

Again, slap a head on it and move on. There's not so much wear there that you caused damage elsewhere. No need to overthink this. Replace the head, put it back together, drive it. After a prove-out, if you don't feel like you can trust the truck anymore, replace the truck.

There are reman heads available. I wouldn't feel bad about putting a good used one on it either.

The internal water pump is not a new concept. One of the bigger examples was the GM Ecotec, which never developed the same water pump related reputation. Internal leaks were not a problem and they were perfectly serviceable. Nothing wrong with the basic concept, it's just poorly implemented in...

Also, depending on the version: Roller follower failure Broken timing guides Dropped exhaust valve seats Valve stem seal leaks Head gasket leaks Intake manifold leaks Exhaust manifold leaks Worn cam phasers. On the plus side, the water pumps hold up well and are easy to change!

Replace the head.

Well, I've driven 20+ year old vehicles since I've had my driver's license and have applied this view the entire time. My balance sheet tells me it's effective :D. Weird, maybe. That's up to you.

Looking out for who? FWIW, if it makes you feel better, I'd opt to replace the head if it was my own. Anyway, you disagree. Got it.

People have done it. But more realistically, he could take it down the street to you if he didn't like my offer. Wouldn't hurt my feelings. I wouldn't want the job if just a cam replacement was requested.

:🤷: To each their own. OP says there had been top end noise previously. I'd put a whole head on it if the job was mine. Can more confidently guarantee a fix, warranty, and a job completed with no surprises/extras in a timely manner.

Likely more cost effective to buy a head assembly than to replace the cam, tappets and followers separately. Bonus is you'll get new phasers and DI parts if it's a DI engine.

No good. Replace cylinder head