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I know the wife would love a water softener so I’ll have to research more on it, on initial take I wouldn’t have thought my projects would be connected in any way since I’d have to find the beginning of the water lines I assume rather than where it goes to the water heater?

I do read a lot that the powered anode rods work differently and nearly stop corrosion…I have very hard water here and the regular anode rods only last 2-3 years is my understanding hence wondering if stepping up to the powered rod makes sense?

I’m thinking of getting a powered anode rod upgrade to drop in as well - thoughts there?

I had a plumber come out in 2021 and he brought the T&P up to code but that was it I assume if I needed one they would have upsold it ChatGPT says my area only requires one if I have a back flow preventer which I don’t

No expansion tank, I do not believe I have anything that stops the water flowing backwards to the main line and hence won’t need one

Maybe you’re right - gut the drywall and move it up might be the best approach… I am getting a heat pump water heater so it wouldn’t be strange to have it away from the wall slightly as more airflow the better. Thoughts on shark bite fittings?

I am replacing this leaking water heater and I really needed the larger size as we run out. Problem is it’s 6” taller… and these outlets will be in the way Would it seem like a hack job to unsolder these, put a 90 degree bend upwards and then put a new copper flex pipe going to the new heater...

Just updating - new Conti DWS front tires resolved it, no more noises.

I spent some more time today on it -- I think I may just have a flat spot. I spun the wheel and noticed theres a high/low spot against a flat background. I checked against the rim and it doesn't appear its the rim itself doing it, so it appears its the tire. Tires were new at 31k and I have 76k...

It’s on both sides the same so doubtful both are rubbing identically. I took the wheel off and the back plate isn’t rubbing it’s all in perfect position

Got the 535i up today and spun both front wheels. Here is what they sound like. Both sides are basically identical metallic noise. Does this appear normal for a RWD (no axles at the front here)? Or is this a good sign the bearings are beginning to show some wear and could be the noise discussed...

Personally never experienced this and have definitely had some older cars with bad alignments. The only way I could imagine this being bad enough is a completely torn bushing where its rattling in the bushing socket...Of which I have definitely none and have inspected all the control arms...

Front Tire Size: 245/40-19 Rear Tire Size: 275/35-19

Cant -- rears are staggered...Rear tires I replaced last year. No alignment issue, the tires are wearing very even.

Continental ExtremeContact DWS. Late 2022 manufacture date. 43k miles on them. At 43k miles they don’t owe me much but still have 5/32” tread (front tires on my 2016 535i). Noticed some cyclical rolling noises from the front that started a few months ago. Seems to do it all the time turning or...

great thanks -- sounds like ESP 0W30 is the right choice. I'll go with that since I am out of warranty now so who cares if its not 508.

N55 535i. I like this idea too, especially here in AZ with hot climate...after the engine turns off the oil is more likely to burn off quicker than a colder climate if that makes any logic?

OE Audi oil is nowhere near the price of ESP X2…it’s almost $10/qt

Great! I already just purchased the new M1 0-40 formulation that has LL-01 for my BMW… Can I make life easier and use M1 0-40 for the Q5 or should I stick with ESP X2? CPO and AudiCare just expired so this is our first oil change myself!

What’s the easiest to find 508 spec oil to recommend from a mainstream? I know LiquiMoly offers one but over the years I’ve swayed away from them…