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Good ideas. Im gonna try those when I have it on a lift. Also, rear is original. No slop at all in rear DS.

Man, I dont know if his clunk better or not. Watch at 7:05.

@clinebarger @D60 I found a video from a guy with probably the same clunk as I have. Watch this video starting at 5:25. Thats the same clunk I get when shifting to Reverse and this guy said it was the same for him. If nothing else, I prob need to do the "pump rub" fix. Ive watched many NP 246...

2004 crv- I do a 3.5 qt drain and fill every 15k. Its prob the easiest tranny drain and fill ever.

Thanks for the input. So, given the mileage and age, just run it until something worse happens? Any issue with just pulling front driveshaft?

Yes. Looks just like this

Anecdotally, I helped a buddy do option #3 on a Tacoma a few years back at 160k on factory fill WS. Its still rolling strong with Maxlife at over 190k now.

Holy crap. I cant believe I left that out of OP. Yes, I have gotten a random service 4WD light. Its only happened 2 or 3 times, then went away on the next trip. Im only driving this truck about 500 miles per month. Also, no codes from your standard ELM OBDII code reader. Thanks And yes, Ive got...

It wont be long before some sweet sub $2 per quart Duramax UOAs start rolling in and Supertech will be all but forgotten🤣🤣🤣

Ive had a metallic clunk in the drivline of this truck when shifting into Reverse for a while. I dont drive it much, and its got almost 300k, so I just dismissed it as an internal 4l60e issue that I was gonna just ride out until it something caused me to pull the tranny. If I quickly bypass...

About 100 qts, so maybe 2 years worth for 5 vehicles. Ill shop some more in a few months when I knock it down to about 75.

I second this. Dr Sullivan is a board certified physician and very experienced with older lifters. His gym is called Grey Steel. I discovered him through the Starting Stength website about 10 years ago. He has alot of good stuff on Youtube if anyone want to check him out before getting the book

The main reason to bring it up was that Ive got a pretty decent stash of 5w30 that I could get about 2 years worth of OCIs.

After digesting all the info from BITOGers, I think that is the plan.

Ive come to believe this guy knows his Toyota stuff. He too, states that GL5 75W90 is perfectly fine in diffs and TCs. He also specifically addresses GL5 being hard on yellow metals in manual transmissions and emphasizes the need for GL4 in those applications. Anecdotally, when I dumped the FF...

Not high stress per se, but I was surprised that it revvs at 3000 at 70 mph on the highway. I wish I had a 6 speed.

0w40 is not a choice on the online submission form

Ok, so now were getting to the nuts and bolts. So youre saying that in order to get the Euro manufacturers' approval, the oils are just flat out better due to stringency vs API approvals? Thanks everyone for helping me understand this Euro stuff better.

Ok, good info. I was under the impression that the Euro oils were all made to hit the 10k OCI with no sweat with severe conditions. OTOH, some API syns may or may not be a great choice for 10k OCIs in severe conditions. I have a decent amount of 5w30 syns on hand, so I was just going to use them...

This horse may have been beaten here before, but this is my first Euro car. Is there anything wrong with running a good 5w30? Im mostly running around the suburbs with some 30 min trips on the interstate mixed in.