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The RFE trans is somewhat notorious for dropping the suction filter out of the valve body if its sealing ring is not changed during the trans service. Dying when coming to a stop is a common symptom (TCC doesn't release). A 2001 model may or may not set a 'loss of prime' DTC, but the newer stuff...

Unless you want to push your OCI beyond 3000 miles I wouldn't get too caught up in using synthetic or semi-syn. With that said: Valvoline 20W-50 seems to be the go-to for conventionals. As for syns, Castrol Power RS 4T 10W-50 is available on Amazon in a 6 pack, sometimes discounted to a little...

Originally Posted By: Lapham3 My wife has had a '76 Midget since new and I don't recall using engine oil in the 4spd in that car. In fact I changed it a couple years ago when I saw some old GL-4 on closeout at O'Reilly's. My '86 V6 Fiero specs engine oil(10-30?), which I used for many years...

Originally Posted By: dwgwater I had a similar question that was addressed at length here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3097400/1 Looks like we're in the same boat on this one. I see Mola recommended a Synchromesh type fluid for you (~ 10 cSt @ 100C). What throws up...

I have to ask the dumb question: How did you torque the lug nuts?

Hi all, I'm pulling the gearbox for my 74 Midget to redo all the leaky seals and whatever light reconditioning it might need. It got me thinking about oil choice. MG recommend a regular PCMO 20W-50. I have PYB 20W-50 in there now and it seems to do well, but I'm sure it's far from ideal...

Originally Posted By: Klutch9 My Miata would be a totally different car if it had 200hp. Instead, I have 140hp and have to really wring it out to get anywhere. That's part of what makes the Miata great. Kudos to Mazda for keeping the car's intent the same into the ND generation. I know it sounds...

Mazda's aim with the newer Skyactiv engine family is efficiency and usable power. True, the MZR it replaces was more highly strung but was also comparatively thirsty. Tighter CAFE and CO2 caps are part of the new world order, for better or worse. We've gotten so used to the modern horsepower...

I can safely say I've never seen a non-rebuilt OPUS distributor that still works (granted I'm pretty young). Closest I got was a 77 MGB last year - the guy said he had never (!) done any maintenance on it until it just died in traffic. He couldn't comprehend how amazed I was. Going to an...

I would guess spun bearing more than misalignment. If the trans was misaligned I would expect to see lots of wear on the front top bearing half, or whatever the opposite side of the rear was, and a fair bit of wear on the center. If the pressure was low it would be worth your while to check the...

I think all 6.4s have the plumbing for MDS but only those bolted to an automatic make use of it. 5.7s are the same way (some trucks don't have it though), but no 6.1 has it.

Every 6.4 I've seen roll off the truck has had a cap for 0W-40 regardless of application (Ram, 300, Challenger). I've yet to see one that says 5W-20.

You'll do fine to run 5W30 all the time. The 6.4 Hemi in that same truck specs a 0W-40. It's the same engine with the exception of bore/stroke/egr cooler...little stuff. Earlier versions of the 5.7 also spec'd 5W30 through 2004. The UOAs on BITOG haven't really shown to favor any one grade over...

My apologies. I stopped halfway through this post and was chatting about a 41TE to someone else. Apparently my mind got stuck on it :-P Clinebarger is on it.

Sounds like the trans is going into limp mode - shifts to lower gear, stays there, forces the TCC to stay unlocked. I have no hands-on experience with 4T60-Es beyond normal maintenance, but it's probably something minor like a turbine speed sensor that gets hot and goes electrically open or...

+1 on piston slap. The MC filters seem to be among the favorites for preventing oil-related startup clatter. MC and 5W-20 are a dang good combination, I tell you what. (I really just wanted to poke a little fun)

I'll let my sig cast my vote. I had a chance to test ride an America late last fall. For comfy cruising, not much short of an ElectraGlide would be better. The 270 degree crank gave it a really sweet sound too. It was good enough out of the box that I don't think you'd have to change much of...

Back it off and retighten while the O-ring is still pliable. 25Nm is about 18 ft lbs. After your OCI, especially if you go for a longer one, the O-ring will harden and stick in place, making it harder to remove. If you leave it as is, getting it off later will be a *****.

The 11-13 style cap had a torque spec of 25Nm embossed on it; you'd be safe with that. If anything I'd tend to go a bit easier than that. Use a 24mm socket and don't overtighten.

I've never personally done a Cummins long block, but I've heard from other Dodge techs that they run in the neighborhood of $15k.