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Me but only because my two cars are classics , i go 3000-4500 , regardless of the time, if it's 2 years so be it i run high TBN full saps oils anyway. I would not be scared of going 10k in a modern car with a good synthetic, since i don't do short trips or much city driving.

Yeah, the HTHS of multigrade conventional oils back then was pathetic, that is why Mobil could get away with recommending a 5w20 to be used in the cars of that day which most required 10w30, it had a high enough and stable enough viscosity to be used in those engines.

Go look up what 2024 Toyotas spec , that'll really blow your mind. The future is here old man!

All Climate is Vlvoline EU´s bread and butter range, nothing particlarly good or bad to say, you may vind a VOA or UOAA on Oil Club.de or .ru

56.50 Here in Spain for 5L, and that's online, closee to 60 in a brick and mortar store.

So I've read several times here that Calcium can in essence inhibit Zddp in an engine oil from really working properly, effectively making the oil behave like an oil that had less Zddp than it actually has. I just randomly the other day stumbled upon a Uoa of an oil that i've used in the past...

The VR1 conventional is all you need.

Here in Europe we also have a Castrol Classic 20w50 , but it's API SE rated ( yuck ) comes in a pretty tin can and is overpriced, pure marketing for classic car owners that don't know any better, i think i even saw a Voa of it and it didn't even have much Zddp in it. The US GTX Classic looks good.

There are two versions of VR1 , the regular "street" VR1 is perfectly fine for 3-4k miles, then there is the Race VR1 that must be changed before 500 miles max.

No problem mixing VR1 10w30 and 20w50, a quart of 20w50 ontop of the 10w30 will make it more or less a 10w40 which is fine.

VR1 20W-50 would probably be unnecessarily thick but it won't hurt it, just be gentle on the throttle before it's warmed up. Mobil 1 15W-50 would also be a good choice and not as thick when cold.

Valvoline VR1 10W30 would work well in that engine

Hmmm, i guess, but from all the oils i've bought i've only noticed it in conventional, especially Group 1 oils, never with synthetics.

But Kendall was dyed green wasn't it, this oil is not.

Topspeedgermany or Marius RBE on Facebook

Why not just crank it on the starter with the plugs out until it you see oil coming out the pushrods , if you can see from the oil fill cap.

Before the mid to late 50s or so however, oils had little to no Zddp, because the valvetrain pressures were really low, so if you have say car older than that they will run merrily on modern low Zddp Mid or even low saps oils. Although that doesn't mean a good full saps oil wouldn't add some...

Oh this is a guy i follow who does silly car repair videos, he does it on purpose, and all his videos are dubbed with a chipmunk voice.

Oil in the US is still cheap relative to here , even the cheapest no name oils are over 5€ / L . Although yes, sales tax is 21% here.

I've only seen this kind of greenish hue in Group 1 oils i've used, and not even as strong as this. This brand is owned by the SCT group, who also own Mannol , Fanfaro etc which are fairly popular low cost oil brands in Europe.