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He is from Canada so it 95% means HDEO like the Rotella he has used. 15W40 PCMOs are very uncommon in North America, here in Europe they are still quite common and easy to find.

I'm not sure but i doubt it given it's a 1989 model I don't believe even 229.1 which is an even older spec existed. With that said 229.3 would not be a bad oil spec to look for , but to be honest , he is doing 1200km a year, that's about 720 nonsense units a year. Any A3/B4 certified oil needs...

This is apparently from the owners manual of a M103 W124.

I doubt the Mercedes dealer will even know what the heck a W124 is or the M103 engine. I wouldn't trust their advice too much. They'll probably try to sell you their own Mercedes OEM oil at an exorbitant price that may not even be all that good for your engine. And to be honest with you...

I too used to use crappy cheap coolant and even topped up with tap water here, when i was still young and dumb and learned the same hard way. Then i found Bitog and realised oh, i'm doing this all wrong 😅 I blame my dad, may god rest his soul, he was a car guy yet never took good care of his...

I know we do, he is in Canada but says he only uses it in the summer and is in southern Canada if i understood correctly. But i like trying different oils and yes i have used plenty of different middle priced 5w40 A3/B4 HC synthetics but also Mineral HDEOs etc that jave worked fine in my oldies.

With that said i am surprised Rotella has such bad foaming issues like you say especially being a more modern formula than the ones we have here. I've used 15W40 HDEOs like the Rimula that Shell makes for the European/Asian market several times , which are also btw like i said API SL and CI-4...

Well, fair point, ok. I am on the other side of the pond and was not aware they would be so close in price. M1 FS 0W40 here is currently converted to dollars about 11$ a liter/quart, at the cheapest. M1 5W-50 is more like 12$. Others like the M1 10W60 that we have but you don't is over 13 i...

It's a wonderful simple chain driven Single Ohc Inline 6, not particularly powerful, and i doubt he is doing track days in the summer with it, just a great engine for a cruiser like the W124. My point is simply , more expensive does not always equal better outcome. Put a good filter on it, and...

Because dual rated HDEOs are proven to work absolutely fine in older gas engines and have been for years? And come on, it's a W124 Mercedes, Mercedes engines and cars from that era are bullet proof, plus he says he has been running that for years with no trouble. Would a modern synthetic A3/B4...

Here in Spain you can buy even 5% premix coolant., only protects to -4C. Someone i know went to the Scottish Highlands in winter that in their engine of his camper van and uh oh, it was much colder than that overnight, result, cracked block! It's 5€ for 5L vs 14 or more for most 50/50 brands...

Since you say you don't really drive it in winter Rotella T4 should be just fine still.

Most 5w50s are in the 4.2-4.4 ish range. With a thicker base oil like 15w50 or 20w50 you can fairly easily get over 5.0 without the need of too much VII

I have never used oil additives either but this one in particular seems interesting and it has good reviews proven by UOAs so why not, i might give it a shot, i've experimented mixing oils before too intentionally and running them just out of plain curiosity, and i'm confident enough to do it...

Yeah, i am trying their new API SP GTX 20W-50 Syn Blend and i looked up the data sheet and it doesn't say much in terms of typical values or comments about the oil.

They have some interesting oil additives however, like the Mannol Ceramo Ester, comes in a 250 or 300ml can and it really is Ester plus a good shot of Moly and Zinc , have seen UOAs done with it and yes it does appear to work, i think the whole can treats up to 5L of oil.

The one at my shop has like 6 or 7 different ones in length and width. On some engines it's tricky to get the tube all the way down to the bottom.

You're joking i guess, don't forget to tell the doctor he needs a pro personal master mechanic available 24/7/365 .

You don't need CK4, it limits Zddp i believe no matter the viscosity? Passenger car oils like SN and SP are still not limited unless they are combined with another spec that limits it like ILSAC GF5,6 etc. C3 is basically just A3/B4 with a lower ash limit meaning less additives to protect dpfs...

What are those oil stop leak, oil burn, compression improver goop additives even made of, is it straight VII? Heavy base stock conventional oil, bright stock? Genuine question