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I just want to spend time with my wife and kids. gifts don't mean much when you're the one that pays for them (I bring in about 95% of our income).

Good #@$%! that's huge.... I'd hate to be anywhere near a line from that thing when it lets go... high pressure steam is scary stuff, IMHO.

this is a big part of why I said just strap it and go... sometimes you're better off just burying stuff that can become EXTREMELY expensive once exposed. the best thing to do w/ asbestos is to let sleeping dogs lie. besides, the pine ceiling isn't that heavy and if your ceiling structure is...

shellac them all the way around, even on the tongue & grooves (just don't go crazy on the T&G.) you want the wood to be cut first so you don't have to worry about about scratching up the finish. another finish option is spar urethane, it's more durable than shellac, and you don't have to put on...

I would strap out the ceiling with 1X3 pine strapping 12"-16" OC (screwed), then hand nail (8d galv finish) the T&G to the strapping. obviously run the strapping 90deg to the way you want to run the finish pine. Nail the boards through the tongue at an angle so the next board will cover the nail...

phytoplankton in the ocean remove about 9x more CO2 from the air than land plants do.

buy them both. each will have something that the other left out. the best one to get is the factory service manual.

an important thing to know about aluminum is (I'm grasping for the proper term) that it doesn't have unlimited fatigue strength. (unlike steel) for example if you take an aluminum bolt and put a 50% load on it, eventually it WILL fail. this is very unlike steel, which will hold that 50% load...

about 10 years back there was a lightning strike about 50' from the bedroom window. the EMP fried my UNPLUGGED brand new stereo, VCR, and the video card (the at the time smoking S3 trio) in my also unplugged computer. my point is, not even a surge protector is going to save you sometimes. a...

It's CO, not CO2. a properly running furnace puts out CO2 as it's the byproduct of complete combustion. terrible way to go, CO removes your bodies ability to take in O2 by binding to the hemoglobin in your blood.

what code is used where you live? I've never seen that required in a non rated structure. I know this is a bit late in the game, but you should have had wind stops nailed in between the trusses. you use 2x whatever material that leaves you with about 1 1/2" to 2" clearance from the roof deck...

If I were to have a vette (to actually drive) it'd be a brand new Z06, it even makes a L88 stingray seem like a slug.

we use the same thing but they're called Prop-R vents. you staple them to the underside of the roof deck. why in the blue **** do you need to firecaulk your wiring? are you penetrating a rated firewall?

I always liked those "baby vettes". Back when I was in HS there was a yellow GT that sat on a trailer on my way to school... I always thought of buying it and stuffing some unreasonably powerful engine in it.

I've seen them at a local GMC dealer off and on for over a year (maybe even two). someday I'm going to buy a C6500 or C7500 (Cat C7/Allison)to move my Cat TH63 telehandler around. I've never seen the Int'l CXT in person though.

it'll either be 3/4"X2 1/2" pine boards or 5/8" X2 1/4" spruce boards nailed 90deg to the bottom chords of the trusses. I forgot to mention the strapping also supports the total weight of the insulation. sheetrock was never intended to be load bearing (in a residential app, I'm not talking about...

the furring strips run 90deg to the trusses. what the strapping does is keep the bottoms of the trusses from moving as they are loaded. this keeps the drywall screws from "popping" and becoming visible. you can get away with it somewhat with trusses, but you *will* get screw pops, esp in winter...

what I would do is use 6mil poly sheeting directly on the trusses, then fur out the trusses w/ 1x3 pine strapping 16" OC (or if you're a masochist, spruce strapping or metal furring channel). then screw your sheetrock to the strapping.

add a "decompression solenoid" to an MDS/DOD system and you've got a jake brake. a jacobs compression brake uses the cylinder to compress the air, then the exhaust valve opens, dumping out the cyl pressure, so you don't get most of the energy back from the spring effect.

use only the white (non polyurethane) minimal expansion foam. waaaaay too many people go crazy with the yellow "expando-foam" and end up with window and doors that don't work. as far as caulking goes, I think a caulking gun should require a license. whatever you do DON'T caulk any flashing, if...