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CYLINDER BORE DIAMETER (POST HONED) OEM Standard I.D.: OEM Wear Limit: 0.0079" GRADE 1 3.4252" to 3.4256" + Wear Limit = 3.4335" GRADE 2 3.4256" to 3.4260" + Wear Limit = 3.4339" GRADE 3 3.4260" tp 3.4264" + Wear Limit = 3.4343" Result: #1 GRADE 3 3.4264" PASS #2 GRADE 2 3.4260" PASS #3 GRADE...

Thanks guys, I got the block, crank, and bearing cap back, and it turns out in the end he didn't even have caustic, even though he told me he did in the beginning. I'm going to re-measure the bores and pistons tonight and post the results, and I'd really like your opinions on what my next move...

The FSM states the limit to be 0.0006" to 0.0014" for clearance. If the after my measurements (after honing), the clearance is slightly off, because of piston skirt wear, am I able to just replace the suspect piston with replacement standard size piston, or do I have to re-bore and replace ALL...

Does anyone know what the minimum amount of time in hrs and the maximum amount of time in hrs, I can ask the machine shop guy to leave the block soaking the in the caustic tank?

I painted mine with the Rustoleum High Temp paint but the flanges will rust almost immediately. AS well, the rust starts to develop on the welds. I'll take a photo to show you guys after 1 yr the corrosion on the OEM exhaust whole brand new system from header pipe to muffler, completely painted...

I don't think stainless is worth it. My OEM steel exhaust rusted out at the 14 yr point. I replaced it with the exact same (Steel) system and it should be another 14 yrs.

Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82 My friend just bought a 91 Maxima and after reading around the net about it it seems the automatic transmissions are prone to failure around 100k (his has 109K). I looked to see what a filter would cost on a site and they had a little note under the part...

But tom I checked the surface with a machinist level and 0.005" feeler gauge, it's fine. The problem was the studs snapped, I don't know how - from heat...mind you they were 16 yrs old? When the stud snapped it creates a gap - then the puttering sound after. And get this, of the 12 studs total...

The RE4F02A filter is some levels down within the valve body. It requires OVERHAUL TEARDOWN, which means it will cost alot to get the filter changed...in fact so much that you would be overhauling the tranny for that amount of work to get to it.

I've been using a [censored] mask. For intermittent home use for the car repairs (cleaning) what kind of mask do I need to use this stuff?

For months on multiple jobs I used Varsol with this engine cleaning gun - the wand style 3 foot ones. Then recently I was using Laquer thinner in it, and it was working for a few hrs, and then the thing stopped working completely, as in it wouldn't suck anything through the clear vinyl hose. No...

Tom: It's bad. To re-do the manifolds it means complete engine removal, which means transmission removal, transferring to a stand, and more costs in gaskets because the plenum has to be removed. In other words, there's no way I would do it. If the sound was still there, I would leave it. Onion...

My only concern about getting the manifold flanges machined, is, the header pipe down blow might not line up properly if I change the distance. They don't mention machining those in the service manual. The head ports and flanges on cylinder head are within flat spec - checked with the 0.005"...

Product: LOCTITE 5920 Copper High Performance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker High Temp Resistance: 600°F Intermittent 700°F Intermittent Could this product IMPEDE the ability of the exhaust manifold gaskets (fiber/metal gasket material) to work properly? When I re-assemble the engine, i'm concerned...

I forgot that detail too Mechtech - it's explained in the FSM. There's an initial lower torque value they give, then they say you additionally move it (clockwise) to get the cotter pin to line up, but they also say do not exceed so and so torque in bold letters. My guess is the over torqing...

That's right Steve, your spot on for the jack point. That's the rear suspension member - identical spot for my Maxima. I have a theory that when shops lift our cars from the side body panels (because of ease of access and no bending over), NOT at the FSM lift points, that the flexing on those...

About $1500.00 last yr, and $3000.00 this yr probably. Not including tools.

The ghetto way is dirty engine oil, but it's not so great. That's what I've been doing. The salt and water strips the oil away. What you want is the oil based rust proofing, there's a whole thread on this recently. Locate it. The undercarriage should be clean though before applying. Clean the...

Hey bud - i'll take a photo so you can see. I do notice those ball bearing type ones in the crankshaft - do I need special tools to remove those, then get the machine shop guy to re-install? I want to pay outsiders AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE - I don't like giving them my money. Most businesses...

Wondering what you rebuilder guys think of your opinion on Rock Products (USA) for replacemnet parts like Camshafts, Hydraulic Lifters, Main Bearings. Are they at least as good as OEM Nissan?