Search results

Hi Buick - your right, just freshening it up and I wanted to do the fun job myself this summer as I have A LOT of enjoyment doing this stuff. It's a hobby really, not a job. I just do it at home. Car is moderately high mileage - 400K KM but pretty old 16 yrs, and your totally right, I've put in...

Tosh - I don't know him but he's a race engine builder and a race car driver (stock cars? I'm not sure i'll find out) and his shop is in business for 35 yrs, but we talked about my overhaul before and he said he was impressed that a young guy like me was attempting it himself.

Tom I have an idea for the welding thing on the suspension - photo to come soon for that thread, once it stops raining here. Basically I was thinking grind the hole big with the carbide burr, enough to drop the old piece out and fit in an M14 Cap Screw with a fender washer or regular M14 washer...

The engine had to be transfered to the stand for me to repair the exhaust manifolds - that's when I decided to do the re-ring and bearings. As well as every other inspection while I had the motor out, as well as the steering rack and plumbing underneath, as the empty engine bay gave access. As...

If only we lived in a world where higher asking price equates to better worth. Considering it will only take him 12 minutes to do this job, his price is in fact the only realistic price.

Thanks guys, I called my list of machine shops - they wanted between $40.00 to $60.00, most shops wouldn't give me a price - they like to use the open end method so they can create the price themselves once the work is done and I'm stuck paying what they want. Good news is I found one shop to...

How much can I bid to the machine shop(s) for this task? I found some irregularities on the LH side one. I do have those abrasives like the scotch brite attachments for my die grinder - can this fix it or does it need to be decked?

ANSWERS: Andy: City driving in Canada - ie. Severe Service Maintenance Schedule. Also, the O2 sensor was broken for a long time and I had a hole in the exhaust header pipe (Down Pipe), and the car was running insanely rich burning tons of fuel for some reason. I did a leak down test before...

Bad news guys, the carbide burr slipped while using the die grinder, and because it's such a high quality double cut one, it instantly started taking metal off on the side of the hole right into the threads. Photo to come tommorow. I think I want to leave this for the machine shop at this point...

OK Thanks guys. The EZ Out is the original type by CLEVELAND, bought at Grainger so I think it's the good material. The cylinder heads are Aluminum. I managed to get out 5 of the other studs with the broken EZ out piece that seemed to work better when the pointed part sheared off. I'll try some...

I broke the EZ Out flush with the pre-broken exhaust manifold stud, trying to remove it Left Twist. How much should I bid to the Machinist to remove this thing? I tried to drill out the portion of the EZ Out but it broke my LH Jobber Drill Bit. Moved up a size, and it just won't drill into the...

I'm trying to think what on earth then could have been causing the blow by to coat the domes on the bottom of the cylinder heads, and why the exhaust valves were crusted black, plus my spark plugs were fouled with black gummy stuff all the time.

OK That's cool Mechtech - so I can go by the 0.004" Limit when I see his bore gauge moving. More importantly because I did the bore I.D. with snap gauges, I should re-measure each of those. I don't trust the snap gauge reading - I was getting all sorts of skew.

Originally Posted By: Trav Sorry i was looking at the wrong spec (piston to bore) this is what it should be for max Cylinder bore taper - 0.006 in 0.015 mm. Go by your service manual specs. This may be of interest to you as far as bore finish goes...

That's exactly what it is guys, folded member, welded shut - it's hollow inside. I'll try to get a photo today. Need to continue painting my engine parts.

Originally Posted By: oilyriser I guess it's good that it broke while working on it, and not while driving. True, but it likely would have never broke while driving. The reason it broke was, when removing it with the impact wrench, it was going, after I heated it and used Loctite Penetrating...

Problem is, it's hollow in the chassis, and the welded anchor was put in during manufacturing in the factory likely before they put the chassis together, so it broke off inside. Is this where TIG comes into play - trying to weld a stud to something thin? Another option could be to put in a weld...

I'll take some photos later today, and maybe you guys can look at them tommorow. And suggest the cheapest method for repair. I would like to avoid paying someone else to do it, but if necessary because it needs 220V, I will take it to someone. The car is drivable with one side attached, but only...

I broke one of the weld anchors for my front LH control arm bracket and I need to weld an M16 stud in it's place. The metal for the chassis, where the old anchor broke, is pretty thin, maybe 3mm thick. Because the chassis metal is thin, but the M16 stud is thick, can a small hobby 120V MIG...

OK thanks guys, I'll do the taper measurements with a 0.0001 Bore gauge during the week. I can confirm that the top ring is chrome type. What's the surface finish desired for that type? As far as the wear limit for tape, did you mix up the graduation Trav? Isn't the maximum not to exceed...