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I wrote earlier in the thread that if I couldn’t get the fill plug out, I’d drill and tap a new fill hole.

The car isn’t garaged, so I’d likely cover the Diff with a plastic bag and secure it with a bungee. I figured to remove the bolts, I’d screw the cover to a piece of 2x6 kd, which I would then clamp to my workbench. I’d like like to avoid screwing directly into the bench, but I could if...

I know it would make an unholy mess, but otherwise, why shouldn’t I take the cover off before removing the drain plug? I’m just curious. Would it damage something?

I was thinking of doing that. It’s a M18-1.5 bolt, I believe.

Yes, I looks just like that, not quite as clean. It’s hard to tell from the angle he filmed at, but the chassis gets in the way of the fill plug just a bit. I think this is why I rounded it off, because I was tilting it ever so slightly because of the chassis.

I used WD-40 pretty liberally after I couldn’t get it off the first time, but at that point I’d basically rounded it beyond repair.

Good point. I think I’ll just get the replacement cover to be safe, and still try to salvage the old one. I can always return it if need be.

I guess it’s worth a shot to try it without taking the cover off. If it won’t come out, I can just take the cover off like I’d planned.

I would love to, but the fill hole is the one that’s stripped and stuck. The drain hole might very well be stuck too, but I haven’t given it a try yet.

If I plan ahead and order online, $47. If I’m impatient and need it right away, $88. I guess I could take it to a shop, but I like working on my car myself.

So yesterday I attempted to change the rear differential fluid on my 15 Forester for the first time, at 85k miles. So, I ordered the appropriate hex/torx socket attachments, etc. and watched a bunch of YouTube videos, read a bunch of forum posts, and felt ready. What I was not ready for...

I was taking a look at some dielectric grease and thought, “how is this different from the sil-glyde brake lubricant grease I already have?” I’ve been researching, and can’t come up with an answer. Is it safe to use the sil-glyde brake lube as dielectric grease for my headlights?

That makes sense. I’ll do that. For some reason I had it in my head that they had to be the same, but of course they don’t.

So I did call an inquire. The dealership (Planet Subaru in Hanover, MA) has a program where, if you do all of your service at the dealer, they will give you free tires and batteries for the life of the car, and a free extended 10 year, 150,000 mile warranty. But the catch is, you have to pay...

I’ve never changed the differential fluid in my 2015 Forester (85k) and figured it’s about time. I went to pick up three quarts of Diff fluid at the local auto parts store. They had a great sale on Valvoline 75w-90, but only had two of them. They had Mobil 1 75w-90 for a few dollars more. I...

Either they charged labor for the check, or for the oil change. ‘Maybe I should call and inquire.

I’ve dealt with that dealership in a number of occasions, and have had very positive experiences. I was a bit shocked at the price for that service. What exactly needs to be “checked” at 6k that isn’t already part of the standard oil change service?

Thanks for the feedback guys. I’ve used Fram orange cans on my 2015 Forester, along with Supertech 0W-20, for 6k oci’s the last three years. She sounds and runs great, but my wife wants to put “the best” into her new car. After getting fleeced for a $176 oil change and 6k mile “18 point check”...

Hi, long time lurker, first time poster. I’m writing because I’ve come across some conflicting information, and I thought that the knowledgeable folks here might be able to help. I’ve been upgrading my oil and filter use since I began lurking here. Recently I changed the oil in my wife’s 2020...