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Thanks to everyone who has responded. Your replies are helpful!

Does NeverSeize, say, as an anti seize on sparkplug threads, harden in any way due to combustion, heat, and ever make it harder to remove the plug? Also, if you use NeverSeize, seems to me you need to lessen the torque somewhat. Say, install plug to spec'd torque dry and clean threads to achieve...

Thx, All, for your respective replies. I guessed that Cold would be best; great to have that affirmation. The sound that an aluminum head makes when the plug is being cracked-loose makes my skin crawl... (and the mechanical sympathy side of me cries 😐).

Any thoughts on the thread title? Thanks in advance to any/ all who answer. Oh, btw... aluminum head.

Agree... but I have a very-heavy/wide-jaw adjustable wrench (wide- and heavy for its length/size) adjustable wrench that works very well. Undid a tubing gland nut the other day on my Honda fuel system... as I did not have the proper tubing wrench size for it... But yes, I agree...

I don't any to pour water on your plans to lose the DSG in favour of a 6MT... but it seems to me that that'd be a hard and expensive undertaking. I expect most folks would counsel you to sell the car and buy a car with the transaxle you really want. There are Ferrari folk that spend $20k to make...

Yeah, I believe pretty recently they smoothed out when the boost comes on Prior, really, you'd need a tune... not so much for power but to smooth out the throttle response so you could drive it more smoothly... At least that's what I heard talk of...

And more... Said chocks have to be loaded, and have friction with the grd

I don't think all A/Ts just dump cooler return into the pan. The CD4E is one such transaxle...

When you pull the cooler return line and direct it into a bucket, if there are any lube points it feeds... does that not prevent lube flow to those points with this line disconnected? Also, do u have it in Drive when doing this? U also said you replenish the ATF after doing this... Is that of...

This Ravenol is FL22... not diluted...

And another thing: the hub bore on Honda's is long. Long enough to allow the use of that steel centre-cap. Rare. Only Mazda steelies, also, have that long bore, to my knowledge.

You folks, at least some, underestimate the good look of a painted steel wheel. Rattle can! Satin finish!

I'm not arguing re the Tesla's quality, but if BMW is really just starting-out on the road to electrification, do u expect there not to be any glitches? I'm not taking about the basic body and peripherals, but rather the battery and motors (and software)...?

In a "mind-construct", so to speak, if the crankshaft pulley were a sloppy fit (by way of its keyway) onto the crankshaft, and it is the crankshaft itself that causes the pulley to rotate, and to the extent the bolt behaves as if it were fixed to the pulley... then in my mind's eye, the ccw...

Honda's are weird... also with transaxle at psgr side...

Thx for the heads-up... I have MAPP gas...

Engine rotation is CCW, but seems to me crank bolt is rh thread, correct? I shouldn't be lazy....I have the 2186 p. FSM...

Yeah, I've done two TB jobs in past... I can't say I've EVER seen the inside of a dealer's- or Independent's shop in 47 years of driving, hehe, so DIY is where it's at for this cowboy ..

Does anyone know if the Honda tool (saw it in the EricTheCarGuy video on the D series timing belt change - excellent, btw) AND the "weighted socket" are BOTH needed? Seems Eric used a large electrically powered impact gun alone... ??? Also, does anyone know if, when going the impact gun route...