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The wax setting at the car wash does as good as any other wonder spray wax off the shelf. Yup about 6 days of beading protection. No substitute for good ol' elbow grease. Stick with the 845 or the world standard Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell. Grand Pa used it, dad uses it and so do I.

Diesel on a rag. Stuff is cheap too.

I would not use any oil like Maxlife, that is rated for every vehicle on the block. Get the OEM WS. Or is their wordage "can be used in" X brand car? Or is Maxlife 100% identical to WS? Highly doubt it. Trying to save a few bucks on a multi thousand dollar trans is silly.

Like others are saying, don't use it. Repair the leak proper. BUT, IF, you were to use one product, I would recommend the Blue Devil juice. They offer a full money back if you still have leaks.

No doubt 40 grit right PimTac?

NuFinish did the same as the old school, real deal, world standard, Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell did. Now TW SHS is near a water like paste. Not really a paste anymore, more like a heavy liquid. It's all for the lazy American's that want a mirror shine with zero effort, and last all year LOL...

Haven't found a need for a power wringer yet. Just a twist of the wrist is all I do. Tons of water pours out of my chamois.

I have a real animal chamois as you stated. Got it decades ago. Still can't find a better drying towel.

Nope, not at all. Microfiber towels are made of plastic yarn/thread. Plastic as we all know, does not absorb any liquid materials. Try to dry your car with one. You rub and rub and rub and rub and rub...... Panel is still wet as when you started. Leaves nothing but smeared droplets all over...

Chime in if you use and like microfiber towels. I'm still puzzled at why they are used. You ever try to use one? Ever try to dry a car off with one? You are there a l l d a y l o n g. My 35 year experience with drying towels is this. 1.Chamois - THE clear stand out towel for removing...

Prior to waxing any car, you need to strip all the old sludge off. Be it wax, sealant, bugs and so on. THEN you can clay bar away if you wish. Tossing different wonder waxes of the week on won't give the best protection for said product without stripping the paint clean. All in the prep work...

NAPA RED says 5 years or 150k miles I think per their web site. The jug doesn't say anything about life span??. Really I don't know how long NAPA RED is good for. And yes it is made by PEAK. Guessing all the aftermarket Toyota coolants are "close" but not exact in ingredients compared to real...

Check me, you are correct. Forgot about those areas. Good catch sir. Was thinking about the braking surface only LOL.

Just noticed NAPA has it now for $18.99. Guess I got it on sale.

You only need anti-sneeze at the blue line areas. That is where the rotor sits. These are the faces SMA Erik O. cleans rust off.

If you have any brand grease, and the oil separates, better stir it back into the thickened portion or throw the grease away. If you use it, it will be out of grade. Also lose valuable properties it once had when new.

Coated rotors retain the coating for about 5 initial stops. It's only there to stop corrosion before being sold. Zero braking performance characteristics from the coating.

Copper and aluminum have the same stick to them. Just different metallic flakes for heat rejection. Copper version is only slightly better at heat. No real huge difference. Zinc oxide will dry up and turn useless. Waste of money and time as you found.

SMA is also in the salt belt with massive corrosion on their cars. Erik O. makes the best diagnostic videos on youtube.