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Lemon Pledge.

Let it sit out in the rain. No rubbing and no buffing.

Tried the baggie test. Bag made more surface drag. I didn't expect much from it. Back to the drawing board.

Good tip for those driving through wax museums I guess.

Baking soda = alkaline vinegar = acid Mix together you have a near neutral cleaning liquid. Febreze applied now gives you 2 unwanted smells. I would use Dawn or Purple Power Degreaser and a washmit. Use the suds only and blot away. Shop vac it up. Might take several cleanings. Or get some...

I watched those videos a long time ago. I bought into these "new" towels as being the best you can buy. None were even close to my real deal chamois. You can swipe your forehead with a micro and it's saturated LOL.

Okay so the baggie test. Most men hate condoms due to the lack of feel. I've never done this baggie test on a car before. Doesn't sound like it would work. Maybe I need to try it. Surface drag is just that. Wash your car. Take a cotton towel or chamois and simply wipe across the panel. Very...

After 6 months of Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell and NO washes in between, how do you remove that horrendous surface drag off the paint? I strip wash with Purple Power high pH soap prior to waxing. I still have about 15% of beading action left prior to washing. Guess I need to wash it a...

And just remember all, every code reader slash scan tool IS bi-directional. Don't care if it costs 4 dollars or 4 million. All are bi-directional. You plug in. You request all codes (your transmit command to the reader). Your toy gives you back (receive from toy) your codes.

If you would take the time and actually read what I posted..... I've bought expensive ones in the past. Always went back to my chamois. Just no comparison in the water holding capabilities between the two.

Probably sell more oil = $$$$. It's all about price gouging these days. One ship, I repeat, one ship, turns sideways in the Suez Canal. Entire planet pricing goes through the roof. Wasn't like ALL the canals were shut down. Just the one little Suez. Which BTW, pushes 12% of our global...

Wrong. That's typical American thinking. Engineers that built the engine say to use vanilla. Owner says strawberry. Why not just use the factory stated OEM vanilla? And the person saying oh it's only 3% over full. Over full is just that....... Probably the main and helpful reason the OP posted...

Just wondering what you guys are using and why? I have a Snap On that breaks all the time. Never in warranty when I send it in. Hurts when you get hit for $1800 each time x 3 so far. My Autel's are hit and miss. Who has that Blue Driver? It looks pretty good especially for a hundred bucks...

Not wise to "tap" into other circuits to run some dash cam. Don't mess with any yellow connectors (air bag). Did you solder and heat shrink? Or some lack luster Scotch Locks?

Why get black housings or bulbs at all? You can't see that black at night anyway LOL. Can't see down the road either. :giggle:

Get the lowest CA or CCA rating possible. Lead plates are thicker meaning battery lasts longer. Tractor and heavy truck batteries use the same formula. Most starters only draw like 150-300 amps. Those higher rated like 1,000CCA use ultra thin plates. More plates = more CCA. As you can see they...

Larger batteries are normally heavier. Leads towards less MPG. Look for an industrial battery store. They offer batteries for fork lifts and other non car stuff. Golf carts and so on.

I dislike those people with the non DOT approved eye-ball scrorchers from China. Purple beams got to go..... As other stated, most will fail in 4 months time. Waste of money for less light output.

Why a need for a larger battery than OEM stock? If you are having charging issues like mega blaster car stereos then you need a larger alternator. A stock grocery-getter will be fine on the stock OEM battery.

Use what you wish. If you have a full day to devote to "drying" a car off.