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Not entirely sure what Audi is doing but I’m pretty sure you’re going to see C20 and C40 exclusively for Porsches until C12 becomes a thing. I just don’t see where C30 fits. BMW at least had the foresight to ignore grades and specify HTHS alone so LL-01 and LL-04 make complete sense and can be a...

C30 is effectively legacy and the C40 is barely thicker by HTHS. There is no point to C30. ESP X4 is just better if you can afford it and find it. If you are not ok with 3.8 HTHS why be magically ok with 3.5. Porsche's own PDFs somewhere even say the ESP X3/X4 0W-40 got better fuel economy vs...

It's just CAFE nonsense. I have been running it or similar in a car that came with 0W-20 for 2 years now.

Just use ESP X4 0W-40, it is much better for this use than the ESP 5W-30. It is not much thicker, 0.3 HTHS, but it is preferred in 911 for a reason. I'm not sure what the concern is.

600 hp? just run PP Euro 5W-40 or M1 ESP X4 0W-40 or Supercar 0W-40.

Hard to blame it on the oil with a bunch of potentially janky mods, but I would never track a car on 0W-20, nevermind one that has engine mods.

The ESP 5W-30 is also a good oil if you want a BMW approval, but I do like the 0W better. It’s not about the brand more about the composition of the ESP line of oils. Shell/Pennsoil, Castrol, and others have not been as active as Mobil in mid-SAPS Euro oil product updates and distribution it seems.

A little bit higher HTHS (more margin) but it is still an allowed oil according to TIS for warranty purposes if there was ever some dispute.

I do not believe there is any evidence that a 5W oil will help these engines unless you are in extremely cold climates. It's all rumor and hearsay. If you think about it from first principles, there is no real reason for a lower HTHS oil to be better at protecting the bearings. The only 5W-50 I...

I mean, it's hard to argue against keeping on doing what you're doing. That said, I would probably run the BMW LL-01FE 0W-30 if you stick with a BMW oil. If you are going to switch away I would probably just go with something like M1 FS 0W-40 or PP Euro 5W-40. My father is running Motul Specific...

It seems to hold viscosity really well, modern additive package still w some ester base stock, 3.8 HTHS from a 0W-40, C40 + A40 and VW/MB approvals. Other than availability in 5 qt jugs I can't find any negatives to this oil.

Just use M1 ESP X4 0W-40 via Autozone special deal and don't use Ceratec unless you like donating money to German companies.

Rowe is quality stuff it just seems a bit "behind" with the latest additive packages etc. I would use Rowe over LM any day of the week personally.

They are not that correlated. Castrol TWS 10W-60 in some versions had a super low pour point, almost -50 C, but it is a 10W for a reason. Pour point mainly reflects crystal formation I think. Oils with very high PAO content will almost always have a super low pour point regardless of viscosity.

For the inexpensive route: M1 FS 0W-40 with 2 qts M1 X2 5W-50 (same additive package, mix was recommended by XOM engineer).

I would prefer BMW TPT LL01FE 0W-30, Motul Specific LL01FE 0W-30, or M1 0W-40 to the 6600 if you insist on 0W.

Probably but hard to say also since we don’t even know what you’ll get when you buy the Castrol since the PDS has updated twice and Amazon is still shipping the really old oil. Edy likes it though. I’d just run M1 0W-40 or PP Euro/SHU 5W-40.

It has too much ZDDP, otherwise it would be API licensed. Just use the X2 in all of them IMO.

I don’t think it’s an assumption, but it’s not properly controlled as the oils do not appear to be formulated exactly the same outside of the additive package. Surely it has an impact, but it’s difficult to quantify how much.

A 3.7 HTHS 5W-30 like Redline or Ravenol VMP is great stuff unless you’re in Alberta or Siberia.