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I recently did a second oil analysis on the same oil, it has 7k miles on the oil, I added 1.5 qts of make up oil. It´s crazy how low the wear number are considering how hard I have driven the car, I am bit concerned about the increase in the viscosity and the slightly low TBN, I´m gonna change...

It´s a naturally aspirated 8 valve SOHC engine designed in the 80´s, API SP certified oil is more than enough.

Syn Blend

Yes

Here is my first UOA in my 2004 VW Jetta 2.0 N/A at 3k miles with 120k miles. Tons of city driving in heavy traffic, I am planning to do another UOA at 6k.

Originally Posted by SatinSilver Originally Posted by Emanuel We had a 297k miles Corolla, we never changed the manual transmission fluid, and maybe if we did we would have prevented it´s failure, at 210k miles it used to pop out of 4th gear. Nice report, thank you. What year was it? It was...

I do think running rich is bad, I have a carburated Fiat Uno that´s running rich, I have done blotter spot test and I can see clear signs of fuel dilution of the oil, this thins out the oil and wears down it´s additives

Alcohol is a depressant

We had a 297k miles Corolla, we never changed the manual transmission fluid, and maybe if we did we would have prevented it´s failure, at 210k miles it used to pop out of 4th gear. We never adjusted valve clearances, and I´m pretty sure that was the reason why a exhaust valve of the #1...

5w30 will be fine

20w50 is a very common oil viscosity here in Venezuela, people uses it in Corolla, Mazda 3, 4Runner and almost every car that is older than 100k miles. I used to use that viscosity too but since I started to read this forums I decided to switch to 15w40 oils, any oil grade thinner than that is...

Originally Posted By: das_peikko Isn't Venezuela in total chaos right now? Massive inflation, no government, and people running around killing each other? I'm surprised the OP has an internet connection. It´s a total chaos, but we do have internet connection

Originally Posted By: Trav Some European countries have similar prices due to the high tax rate on oil and fuel, what is the tax on oil there? It might be the oil is not that expensive pre tax. It is not for the taxes, one year ago oil was subsidized by the government and costed 1$ a qt, the...

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts A reserve is no good if you can't economically and reliably get it out of the ground and refined. That´s totally true and shows the inefficiency of the government which manages the petroleum industry.

I live in Venezuela, the country with the biggest oil reserves in the world but a quart a conventional oil costs more than 7 USD, the minimum wage isn´t enough to buy a quart of oil by the way

Now that I'm starting to remember the car did died some years ago for a ignition problem, I think it does have a new rotor

Originally Posted By: Yah-Tah-Hey I always replaced the cap and rotor when I replaced spark plugs. Seriously doubt you have the OEM parts. Don't expect a noticeable change if you haven't been experiencing ignition problems. My dad is the original owner, I don't think he has changed those items

Originally Posted By: javacontour Doubtful the originals are on this car. Unless you've owned this car since it was purchased new, those items have probably been replaced. I'm the original owner

Does the Distributor Cap and Rotor need to be replaced? My 290k miles car has original distributor cap, rotor and wires and runs strong without any problems. Would I see any benefit changing those items even when my car is running perfectly?

2 qts over a 10k OCI is pretty good, I wouldn´t be concerned