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I can only compare Nissans for these 15 yrs, plus an 07 impala. The impala was horrible, to much cabin and not enough AC. My rogue works well, eventually, but could use a rear ac. My 21 Altima is perfect, while my wife’s 24 is insane. I took it to the dealer to make sure they didn’t install a...

My wife and I work for the same company, although I travel way more than she does. Any who, we ended up in a Highlander for a week in the Florida panhandle and loved everything about it. Mpg was just, OK, but the car itself made up for that. I’m not into paying more for a car than I did for my...

I installed these last week, after a caliper issue of my own creation. I used green stuff pads which are advertised as easier on rotors…. shall see about that. We ran the rogue about 900 miles since with 600 miles being a road trip to hocking hills. I was meticulous on cleaning the rear hubs, I...

I’d be interested to know how the diff fluid works out. I’ve tried oem, amsoil severe gear and motul mineral 80-90. None were as quiet as the schaefers 75-90 I just put in. I’m not looking for a lube that last 100k, my transfer only holds 10 ounces. I’m looking for low noise. I’ve used ppcmo...

I just ordered 2 liters of Bosch 5.1 from rock auto for my Altimas and flushed my rogue with pentosin lv4 from Ollie’s the other day. All theses cars have akebono calipers, which are insanely expensive ($500) a piece to replace. Now that I’ve got a pressure bleeder it isn’t a big job anymore. I...

Sometimes. I had a brake line blow on my f250 and I was able to just replace the line and bleed it out like normal. Granted, it’s not a new giga computerized set up.

My Noco will act like an old buzz box if the batteries to low to except a charge, which is why I keep it around. My son in laws battery just swelled one day for no reason in his f150. C tek is pretty reputable, I’d call it a fluke more than I’d blame the charger but, anything’s possible. Another...

I’ve never been a Ctek fan. No offense. My first smart charger was a Ctek knockoff from CCP. I’ve never saw a cloned battery minder or Pulsetech. I’m sure they exist. Ctek is cheap plastic and may be labeled everything from Corvette to Ferrari. Not that’s necessarily bad, I guess.

That’s how these were. They were the oem akebonos I had powder coated in black to match the midnight color scheme, which looks fantastic. The difference of the bleeder being on top vs bottom was about a half inch. Now I have a whole other issue, the same that my nephew just ran into. I...

Did it at least charge the battery? I’ve got a 5 yr old, severely neglected boat battery that my Pulsetech drought back from the abyss. When I say abyss, I should have got a new one but wanted to see. I was able to take it from “replace” 38% state of health up to 89%. I do have a Schumacher jump...

Can’t ask for much more than that out of your battery. Although I had my wife’s new car battery completely crap out in a week setting at the airport, after it had tested @95 SOH the month prior.

It was the pads. He went to advance and bought a set of platinums for the front and the pad knock is gone. I had ultimax 2s on one of my cars that had pad clunk when backing out and then the 1st initial stop going forward. I switched to brembos and the sound was gone. I figured it was a fluke...

Nissans bleeding process start with disconnecting the negative cable for 10 minutes to disable the abs. Then FL, FR, RL and finally RR. Before I had the FSM I did it the old fashioned way doing a brake flush and did none of this. I started with the wheel furthest from the MC, oops. That was 5...

I had it bled in 5 minutes to perfection. I can’t believe I did something so stupid and fought with these things for a whole day! I had so much fluid flushing through the system it was coming out spotless clean. I’ll never do that again.

You gotta be kidding me! I have the calipers reversed and my bleeders are at the bottom. I beat my head against a wall and it was operator error! Hopefully someone can learn from my negligence here

I have a cheap Amazon Orion pressure bleeder…didn’t work. I’m doing this on my 18 Nissan and can’t get this sucker right. There’s no abs to bleed via scan tool, the fsm says to unhook the negative terminal to disable the abs. I used to use a little hand pump on each caliper that worked well but...

The title says it all. I’m 5 bleedings into a brake/caliper job. Obviously someone getting paid by the hour can’t continuously to take a drive and bleed to get the perfect peddle, the old fashioned way, or using something Amazon sells.

I used a couple of their parts back when they were 1a auto and they were just OK. I refused to pay $700 for a Cv shaft and it filled the bill on my Volvo. I can’t for the life of me figure out this clunk The pads ears fit tight enough and everything is tightened to spec

We just put two new front calipers and ebc green all the way around on my nephews Silverado. The rears don’t make a sound but the fronts clunk. We swapped out the old calipers with the new pads and hardware and pins and just about everything you can think of trying to chase it down. It seems...

I just had a different experience. I put motul 80w90, mineral, in the front and rear 4/24 and was in service for about 20k. My rogue only holds about 10 ounces in the front and about 18 in the rear. I usually change these annually since they hold so little, and it’s always been nasty...