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I would stick with the 15W-50 you’re using. Sounds perfect for your application and the Barra won’t mind having a thick oil in the sump.

Castrol recommends its 0W-40 because it’s a better oil than its 5W-40. Simple as that.

They absolutely do. I’m a mechanic and maintain and repair several Fords and PSA vehicles with wet belts. You can definitely see the degradation, which is why I scope them to keep an eye on them.

yes.

No reason that can’t be replaced without splitting the box. Just need a drift the same diameter as the seal outer, and tap it in until flush. No different to if the seal was the other way around.

That car has done 264,000 miles… the belt was due at 150,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Can’t blame the belt for clogging up the pickup when it was over 100,000 miles overdue for replacement.

Not necessarily; I look after a Fiesta 1.0L which is 10 years old this year on the original wet belts and a borescope down the dipstick tube confirmed no scary belt degradation.

That’s why it has a 10 year replacement interval.

The oil pump is driven by a toothed belt which runs in the sump and is submerged in engine oil.

It lets them cool a bit before shut down. They don’t stay spinning aggressively for very long after you’ve backed off the throttle.

Well, the belt was due 114,000 miles ago! I’m seriously impressed how long that engine lasted. That’s not bad at all.

Oil dilution (with fuel) kills wet belts. Keep the oil fresh and it will be absolutely fine. I would definitely stick to the M2C961-A1 spec though.

HPR5 has a really high starting TBN. But I wouldn’t stress about R&P having a lower TBN – look how good those wear numbers are!

Unless yours is different, all these Kia/Hyundai transmissions are filled in the same way: up until fluid trickles out of the level plug, with the engine running and the transmission fluid at the correct temperature.

You can use the level check plug to fill these, or alternatively use the fill plug but with the level check plug removed to allow the air out of the transmission while you’re filling it from up top. Once the fluid starts trickling out the level check plug, then start the engine, run it through...

Definitely the 10W-40 in those cars.

No

Oil dilution will be from DPF regenerations. I wouldn’t run 0W-20 in this engine if it were my vehicle.

Plenty of Euros run high SAPS oils with DPFs. Volvo has used A5/B5 oils with DPF for years, so has Ford in Europe. DPFs survive just fine in those.

The CX-50 hybrid uses the RAV4 hybrid drivetrain, A25A engine and all