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Even tho' low miles, I wouldn't even consider it $7K (private owner sale) w/o the hood damage. It was only ~$16K new, now a decade old. The post-Covid market is the only way that should sell for $7K.

^ Well if relubing it helps, then apparently the original grease wasn't "just the right viscosity for the future" ? I am doubting that it is that complicated, unless the grease has something other than petroleum base oil. A spray oil should have reasonable penetration, but I would extend...

My suggestion was not to disassemble the entire thing. You're suggesting it is so sealed that there's no way to get any lube in? What about drilling a hole then?

Try lubing the mechanism with a "little" bit of light oil. Light oil because it will mix with the hardened grease to thin it (operate the belt several times to work it in, right after application) instead of having to clean all that out, which you could always do on your next attempt if that...

Yes, in this case, no reason at all to buy OEM instead of the part, OEM.

I'd sooner get an OEM (if plastic, direct replacement, not some higher performance mod) intake manifold than Dorman, because last time, twice in a row, they didn't line up. I am thinking about things like fuel injectors. Suppose made by Bosch, then why would I pay twice as much for OEM instead...

You seem to be implying that there was cheapening in the manufacturing when it is more likely due to just getting rid of the middleman markup. I can't tell you the # of times, I have seen OEM branded parts that cost a lot more than the exact same part sold under the actual manufacturer's...

You know of flat top batteries with no distinguishable caps and a sight glass/eye that aren't sealed aka maintenance free? Who is providing the batteries is going to depend on regional supply. I got another Everstart Plus, group 65, 3 months ago and it was still the same JC design with vent...

Last I checked (having a vehicle with the 4L SOHC), some manufacturers have a standard and a premium belt with the aramid aka polyamide aka kevlar in it. That's what I'd choose, from any of those brands. I got the Dayco w/aramid about 9 years ago and it's still holding up fine, though I don't...

I've gotten Raybestos from Rock Auto that were also Sunsong in the box. They looked fine and have held up a few years so far.

What I usually do is wait till 75K+ to check (or replace if difficult to get to) factory plugs, then replace every 50K mi after that. This within the context that I don't put many miles on any one vehicle in a year, so we're talking closer to a decade.

Considering classic vehicle, would it be an issue to seek an aftermarket *universal* replacement tank? IDK any leads for that but am guessing it isn't a special shape, that there might be something out there that fits.

I can't see your pics, probably a problem on my end? There are many potential causes for a pop going over bumps, but since a pickup has a bit simpler suspension, I'd wonder about your lower ball joint(s) and next, sway bar link, but get it supported off the ground and inspect/poke/pry...

Umm, WHUT?! Don't treat an older vehicle any worse than you would a newer one, then it won't be a beater if you just keep up with everything, unless something that makes a squeak is a beater, or starts to rust out... yeah I guess if you can see body rust then I might call it a beater too but...

If you want to be thorough, you hook up a scan tool and see what code is causing the check engine light to be on. Some fault codes will clear themselves by just driving a while. Some will clear by disconnecting the battery. Some need reset with a scan tool. Lots of people like to suggest...

Well, if old gas was suspected of clogging the regulator, even more I'd wonder about the injector(s) despite adding the injector cleaner, or have you not ran it long with the cleaner in the fuel so it may take longer to do the job? What about pulling the plugs to look for symptoms, does it seem...

The coolant is probably fine for another few years, considering you have tested it, but if it'll make you sleep better, go ahead and change it, flush and refill with the Ford VC-13G Yellow.

I happen to have a (different faucet than I mentioned in my prior post) brushed nickel finish moen with the clear coat on the cast metal base plate. It has never been in contact with acid (nor anything abrasive, nor bleach, nothing but an occasional soapy water splash) but that coating is still...

Fluids yes, depending on when last changed, prudent to do all of them. The owner's manual should list types and capacities. New belt(s), maybe hoses, and check the suspension bushings, tie rod/steering/etc boots for cracks and leaks. I don't buy the tire shop's excuse for too crusty to do an...

^ yeah but that's not always going to work, leaving those sorts of tough reviews. I did that for years, then a few merchants complained that I had mentioned fraudulent ratings on batteries and flashlights, then next thing I know, I was PERMA-BANNED from leaving reviews, with no appeal process...