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Here is your best plug NGK LKR7BHX, second best is Denso SXU22HCR11S ( 3461 )

I use the filter for 10k but I change the oil every 5k

Because people tends to have selective sights, hearing due to past experiences and just focus on the picture without looking at wording around it :ROFLMAO:

That is the reason why people invest on coilover with height adjustable, so they can keep tweaking for any road they want to drive it on. So to expect adjustable shock absorber with flexibility of height is just non-starter.

there is no ideal setting for suspension because it depends on how hard you drive and what kind of road you are driving on. I find default in general full soft is best for OE spring or slightly stiffer works well with Koni yellow, but otherwise when there are many undulation on the road, the...

Ok, if the part codes is for Lancer then it should be more or less the default setting is ok. To adjust understeer/oversteer it should not start with damping, but you should start with camber and toe. You may want to add negative camber and toe out to make the car more agile on turning.

I think definition of premium is very wide. Some producer refer premium to higher octane, and some refer to better quality of fuel regardless of the same octane compared to others. Talking about octane, it really depend the car ECU whether they can do auto adjustment to take advantage or not, if...

Well, if the damper is not originally designed for the car model, then it will throw a lot of variables, so it may need to do many trials. Because different car may have different distribution weight, suspension angle, spring rate, etc.

The Mobil 1 EP composition is interesting, it seems they may use more organic additives that does not show up on VOA

If you use OE spring, the Koni yellow typically works best on full soft because that what they are designed to. The moment you make it stiffer, most likely it will overdampen and you loose suspension travel, that may not only make it uncomfortable but may also reduce overall handling performance...

This is correct, because it only say up, so the filter should face up like shown on the picture

The arrow will come with 2 type of wording, one will just say up and the other will say airflow. For the first one, it means just show which side need to be up (does not refer to airflow), and the second one will refer what the airflow to be (typically will be downward to the evaporator). So no...

I have been running many cars at 3.5k rpm or 4 rpm for hours on hot day, but if your intent is to clean carbon deposit, I find 2 or 3 times x 1 hour idling in different days with Chevron Techron fuel is equally effective. However, I have not tried idling with other PEA additive like Redline SI-1...

Perhaps TGMO will give tiny bit fuel economy advantage due to higher viscosity index if you are short-tripper

Looks like fake parts especially for Denso, such rubber cutting is not passing standard

Fram is good but people not get used to change interval for filter with good filtration, in japan this is 10k kms maintenance item, something like your oil filter that to be changed every engine oil change

Sorry for noob, I thought 0w20 perform better except the last one? Just wonder why change to 0w30?

As some manufacturer mentioned, PEA does not burn completely, that is the reason why it gives more lasting effect on the cleaning.

Personally I find Lubegard has better feel of slipperiness but not lasting as long as Ceratec which somehow may help with better compression. However Ceratec is bad idea if your car is burning oil.

I had the same experience on my old port injected Toyota especially when I put full bottle to the small gas tank of 42 l, but once I refill the next tank it will be back normal or better. However, on my DI car I had no such issue.