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I read many comments stating "low-tension rings" are responsible for oil consumption. But my 2018 Dynamic Force Toyota engine has low-tension rings and stays right on the Full mark on the dipstick, even when I ran it 11,000 miles during an OCI (HPL 0w-20). (I usually only run it about 5000 miles...

If your engine isn't an excessive oil-burner, the higher SAPS isn't adversely affecting your catalytic converter. Still, I'd go to the Euro version the next time. BTW, you haven't had insufficient wear protection with a 3.1 vs 3.5 HTHS...

There is a typo in the second sentence. It's Euro L 5w30, which was corrected later. Nice vehicle!

SP is an approval that indicates certain wear and LSPI mitigation metrics have been successfully met. Low Speed Premature Ignition is LSPI...seems to be a problem especially in some smaller, turbocharged engines. Think of LSPI as a REALLY BIG KNOCK that can knock a hole in a piston.

Then perhaps they simply didn't run the SP testing protocol, since they only list it as SN.

HPL 0w30 Supercar.

Calcium is a bit high in the 1700 range (LSPI prevention tends to have a bit lower Calcium). And/or, they simply didn't run the SP testing protocol. The UOA indicated it held up very well for 5000 miles in a 228 HP BMW B48 engine I ran it in.

Ask Dave, or use the least expensive. All will perform better than your engines will ever require in order to outlast the rest of the vehicle.

THAT sums it up nicely!

I'm saying it is incorrect to form a theory somehow looking to blame the fuel system. A fuel system malfunction would not cause 1 quart of oil burn per 50 miles.

Like TiGeo, I'd go for the one with more Molybdenum....assuming the moly is in a fully formulated oil (such as this) and not being added by a shade-tree tribologist. Plus, I like the Boron in number 1.

It depends. B-) Seriously though, it does depend upon your intended use....but only if you are going for track time or long OCI's. Otherwise, either will do just fine.

I'd think Something has broken in the engine itself.

Even with cats, if the engine doesn't lose oil out the exhaust, would it even matter?

OTOH, trying to get every last drop out means this small amount of oil is no longer in the engine passageways and/or not as much oil coating parts. At least pre-fill the oil filter to limit the time taken to get up to full oil pressure. I prefer to pour 1/3-1/2 a quart of new oil in to help...

I learned to NEVER mess around with gaskets. Get the best one available for the least trouble later. Nice story!

I forget the vehicle, but there was a recall to replace dipsticks on a particular engine due to this problem...

Did you pour a little new oil in during draining to "flush" as much old oil out as possible, and forget? I've done that a time or two (or three). Or, did you perchance empty the drained oil into a large container to measure what you drained out? I always do this to make sure I put back at least...

...there you go AGAIN...painting with a broad brush; "...move on together as a team as most techs do". You're comments are full of speculation and assumption. I simply don't believe your supposed knowledge is superior nor accurate. But, you do keep spewing it out there as if you're the only one...

This person claims to have worked for MULTIPLE dealerships of MANY makes of vehicles. Wonder why he's worked at so many different places? I think I may know some reasons...