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Sounds more like "pinging" to me. LSPI is a problem in some small TURBOCHARGED engines with Direct Injection...none of yours listed are such, are they? LSPI tends to be very violent, not just a slight knock. Re: "pulling some timing", many people think "timing" is the only thing being adjusted...

You obviously don't realize that the oil filter is under pressure from the oil pump, and the Oil pump picks up oil from the oil pan which is essentially at ambient pressure, THEN pressurizes the oil to push through the filter. The ONLY reason the oil pan would have higher-than-ambient pressure...

...except there is no "pressure" in an oil pan, unless the PVC system is hosed...unlikely in a relatively new engine.

My main concern is this: "I tightened the drain bolt til I couldn't anymore with normal pressure..." There is no such thing as "normal pressure". Look up the torque specs and use a torque wrench at least once so you'll have a better idea of the appropriate pressure. The WORST thing you could do...

Just a guess, or do you have actual lab knowledge you'd like to share? My last run was 10,000 miles.

It's more complicated than XXXX Calcium or YYYY Sodium is going to result in LSPI. As always, it's the combination of ALL the factors (including the oil chemistry as well as the actual engine design and current engine/fuel system condition) that determines if LSPI is a concern. I have a...

My Mini has a BMW B48 with direct injection putting out over 300 HP. I've run HPL Supercar 0w30 for 10,000 miles. Just changed it for another 10,000 mile OCI.

What you said is: "I don't know if the [sic] is normal for 1k miles." Your first job is to find out if this TINY drop is normal at 1000 miles or not. It could be it drops this tiny bit and stays at that level for the remaining 2000 miles. As long as the level stays above the Add mark, the level...

HPL Supercar 0w30 in my B48 300+ HP engine JCW Countryman for 10,000 mile OCI's.

Mobil 1 makes a nice 0w20 Extended Performance oil. You can get it under 30.00 per 5 quart jug. It would easily serve your engine's needs for as long as the recommended OCI with no trouble, and it isn't expensive (relatively speaking).

I believe Blackstone infers fuel dilution from the estimated flash point. Not as accurate as GC.

Unless you are an experienced Tribologist, you're taking chances with unknown chemical balances. Don't fall for marketing pressures...

Out: Original factory fill of 2024 Forester at 619 miles on the Odometer. In: Mobil 1 0w20 20,000 mile triple action with Fram Endurance XG7313 20,000 mile filter. Will stick to ~5,000 mile OCI's for this engine that is supposed to get 6000 mile OCI's.

24 Forester...just drained the first time and mine's the same. No mess.

This time I ran the 0w30 HPL Supercar 10,000 miles. No indications of any LSPI events. Filter was very clean...not quite as dark colored as my first 8000 mile OCI...had three hard black balls (carbon?) about double the size of this period: "." Engine lost 1/2 quart in that OCI...I measured 5...

Since oil function depends upon the balance of a specific mixture of components in a specific base oil, mixing various oils results in an unknown performance ability. In my lawnmower? Sure. In an expensive engine? I wouldn't.

Because it isn't high?

Nor is high octane "slower burning". Higher Octane is more resistant to ignition prior to the spark plug firing. Once that plug fires, high octane gas burns as quickly as lower octane gas.

When I see someone sitting in a parking lot in an SUV or Truck idling for literally hours as they wait on someone in the office building, I think the same thing: gas is not yet too expensive...

I have this 2.5 Dynamic Force Engine in a 2018 Camry, 109,500+ miles. I've always run 0w20 in it, most of the time about 7500 miles per OCI, but as long as 10,000 when I had HPL oil in it. It is run on the highway a good bit, but also in suburban use. I've run it several 800+ mile trips at 80+...