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will run Key-on-engine-off test as described here:

It's the secondary alternatator for the rear AC. There are actually 3 alternators in the vehicle. I had a person steal my alternator belt believe it or not. Craiglist's finest. He got me a new replacement, removed the old one. and took the new one (to return it I suppose). I have never been...

I charged the battery to 12.5V.

Video of the crank-no-start: The tach barely moves.

I got the wires for the MAF sensor repair but not sure how to install them:

The Forscan software runs the KOEF test automatically when the module connects. This is the only thing that came up: Secondly, there is no change to the RPMDSD variable, from the KOEF to cranking. This means the engine is not even turning?

No. I do not know the condition of the plugs but the motor has 52K miles on it. Not a bad idea to check the above. One of the mechanics who looked at said it's getting no spark after running some test, but I did not notice which test exactly.

One of the MAF wires is physically broken. I have the replacement. I have not yet installed the replacement. I suppose it does not make sense to do anything else until this is fixed. I will address the battery voltage issue. How do I add engine RPM as a live reading? I did not see any variable...

Intake Air Temperature -- would that sensor prevent it from starting?

Good idea. This can't hurt. I have enough data to analyze, at this point it's the matter of adding the right 28 values to watch. I did hit the save button on ForScan. So it must have logged some data. But again, not sure I am getting the right set of sensors.

So I ran ForScan and added these values. The video above is for an older version of the software, the first one that came up, some of the buttons changed but I figured it out anyway. Not sure that I am looking at the right values. I think Camshaft position sensor is cleared. It's not signaled...

I scanned it. No codes. Multiple times. Cleared them and will re-scan. Well had people rescan for me. I will get my own scanner. If it were that simple. All the simple, obvious things I've done. I got the wiring to fix the MAF but have not installed it yet. I unplugged the MAF sensor - so it...

Pulled the codes. There are no codes. Just a few O2 sensor codes which have nothing to do with it. I'v had this issue for almost 2 years. Gradually getting worse. Now it does not start at all. For the last 3 months. I've had several mechanics try to fix it. One craigslist special class act...

Cold start - good crank, fuel pressure - no start. warm start - works just fine. Crank and quick start. I had the fuel pump replaced, fuel pump control module, was looking into crank pos sensor, camshaft pos sensor, MAF, etc. Just now realized after reading the above it's most likely the ECT...

I think it has nothing at all to with either sensor. Because it starts nicely when warm. Cold start - good crank, fuel pressure - no start. warm start - works just fine. Crank and quick start. it's most likely the ECT sensor. Does it matter if I get the OEM one or an aftermarket ECT is OK? Or...

2012, 6.8L V10 gas.

Have a mobile mechanic tell me $600 to replace the Camshaft position sensor, which is right under a AC Compressor. The sensor itself seems fairly straightforward. It's the AC compressor that's the issue. It's a F550 shuttle bus with 3 compressors. How hard is to to remove the compressor, $600...

which model? clear as mud. https://www.forscan.org/download.html

2012 F550 6.8, V10 Crank no start position. One mechanic think it's bad gas. The other it's the Camshaft position sensor. I need to pull the codes. Need a scanner, something in the $300 range.

I will address the MAF issue. The fuel pump is new and the fuel pump regulator is new.