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I've run every make and brand in my old 4Runner and settled on M1 Euro 0w-40. It's so good I'm moving everything to it. Use API oil if you want mediocre. Use ACEA if you want the best for a comparable price.

Back when Warren Distribution was privately owned and published detailed PDS's, Mag1 and SuperTech were identical.

Just my opinion but I tend to use OEM.

You are already using the right oil.

I've gone 1k over on an OCI and it never bothered me. If your running a decent oil.

Neither...

Flip a coin...

Lots of things to do in the Dells. And ways to empty your wallet. And the crowds. A real tourist trap for folks from Chicago and Minneapolis. Sorry...

I went through the same thing with four body shops with my Ranger that was hit in the same area. Was my fault so I was going to pay. I have two more indy shops to try. If that doesn't work out, my son and I are going to beat it out the best we can. Bought the truck new and no way am I going to...

Two years and the problem has not returned. Pads are ceramic (ugh).

Amsoil is pretty stout! I like the numbers.

Repair the front end. It's amplifying the problem. Have the front rotors turned (trued). I had the same problem with new rotors. After having the rotors turned, the shaking went away.

Well it's not an oil issue. The only way that could happen is if the crank case was overfilled. This is a mechanical or electrical issue that coincided with the oil change.

Agree...

My wife had both hips replaced two years apart. I thought the recovery went great, she didn't. But she is very impatient. They had her up and walking around within an hour or so and I took her home the same day. Some therapy and a walker. Graduated to crutches. And after that she refused a cane...

Mine ran about 20 hours a day for seven days after Matthew until power was restored. Had to run dehumidifiers and fans from the flood recovery people. After they were finished it was the sheet rockers and painters. Also tried to keep two freezers and a fridge running which was futile.

I pondered moving to ESP 0w-30 on my last oil change. I've been very pleased with 0w-40 so that is what stayed with it.

I have one that's similar to this. Engine is a Honda clone. Probably 15 years old now. Key issue is keep up with maintenance. Has saved my butt numerous times.

Back in the 60's my best friend used SAE 30 non-detergent oil to break in his freshly rebuilt Corvair engine. I thought he was nuts but he was probably right. When I rebuilt my 58 Ford inline six engine, I used Mobil1 5w-20 synthetic for break in. Never had any issues and the engine ran great.

I believe it was discovered after the the first introduction of PAO Mobil1 in the early seventies. I also believe that's when Mobil1 introduced the addition of ester into the formulation. I also believe there are no "seal swellers" in oil formulations. Seals don't shrink. They are a rubber...