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Most likely the cleaner dislodged a lot of crud, which in turn traveled through the cooling system, and lodged in the heater core. Try reverse flushing just the heater core. Don't subject your cooling system to full water pressure at the hose spigot. (55 to 75 PSI). That can and will generate...

As far as your application, pretty much any type of gear lube will work.

They used to be more lenient. I know when Glock started production in Georgia, they switched from Tenifer to a Melonite type of finish on their slides. And there were some initial rusting issues. As were some of the early Springfield XD models. The reason Glock switched, was because disposing...

This video shows an immaculate restoration of an old, rusty pipe vise, into better than new condition. If you pause the video at the 19:00 mark, he is shown using a Ballistol brand / type of cold bluing product that works exceptionally well. It applies with a brush like paint, and produces a...

There are alway these.

Chuck was also VERY pro gun!

The first thing oily you grab on the shelf will work just fine. You're trying to stop a squeak. Not push a V-8 to 400,000 miles.

We shouldn't even be discussing this, because the latest B&S engines are "designed" not to ever require an oil change. The sticker says to just, "Check & Add". :poop: I think having to turn the mower over to get the oil out, because there is no drain plug is a nice feature. Just like the...

I'm willing to bet that 99.9% of B&S, and other engines used in the lawn & garden industry, receive no break in whatsoever. Because they don't need them. Most are lucky if they ever receive an oil change. Most of these engines, (unless used by professional landscapers), are run until they...

My 91 F-150 has a few front end Zerk fittings. I usually hit em when I change the oil. I bought that, "Lock-N-Lube" Zerk fitting chuck for my grease gun. Best money I ever spent. No more grease going everywhere, except into the fitting.

Pirelli is simply being honest. (A trait that is becoming increasingly rare in business today). If tires are kept properly inflated, and your suspension components and alignment are all in good shape, and the vehicle is garage kept, out of constant UV light exposure, and you don't try to play...

Yes. I wipe them clean, (oil cap & O-Ring on dipstick), then wet my finger with some fresh oil from inside the jug, and coat the O-Ring and surface around it. I also wipe and oil the contact surface for the oil cap. It makes the cap much easier to remove. After being exposed to heat for several...

A lot of places don't. And there is no way to prove it either way. Walmart has isles full of the stuff, and dirt cheap.

There are literally millions of tires on the road in warmer climates, that are well beyond 6 years old. 15 of them reside in my garage. None are getting replaced any time soon.

My Falkins on my truck were put on July 5th 2011. So, 14 years ago. Not a crack, and still running fine with plenty of tread. The truck is garage kept, which obviously helps a lot.

It just means BF Goodrich and Kumho wants to sell more tires.

I always avoid "premixed" antifreeze, mainly due to cost. For example, if you use plain Prestone "premix", (50/50 mixed with water), Walmart charges $9.98 a gallon...

I would be somewhat leery of using chemical coolant flushes. If you flush the system until clear clean water is coming out, that should be all that is required.

Out here I've seen boat and RV tires look worse after one Summer exposed to direct Sunlight.

Run em'.