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They're definitely not all the same. Some are rated for 10 microns, some up to 30. I've goty filter crossed. It's beta 75 is less than 4. I really wish they'd post the same bata ratios. Donaldson likes beta 1000 (so do I).

It likely won't matter. You have to run Kubota flood lights for thousands of hours to kinda dirty the filter.

I look for big and cheap. A fe3800 is a big 3/4-16 filter and it's $13 for around a 12mu rating.

I unplug my car when there's a thunderstorm going on. I otherwise I run three metal oxide varistors in my charger, a 300v rms mov line to line and two 140v rms mov on each line to neutral. Use mov intended for surge suppression.

Runnit. I've got an OCD wearguard from like 1990 that's in 3/4-16 pile to be ran.

Eureka? I have found it, maybe. A wix fuel filter with a beta 1000 ratio of "less than 4 microns" with a 3/4-16 thread so that means I can get a filter head for it. Is this the ultimate spin-on fuel filter? My previous best had a beta 1000 of 21 and beta 2 of 1mu. I spit on it now. Ptuu.

Best bet would be to upgrade to an engine that has an oil filter and sell the original one. Hpl is great oil practically immune to shear loss. Send off a sample and see if it's got much life left. I'd be tempted to run it through a fuel filter with like a 4mu beta 1000 rating. Thata my next...

I put 50wt in mine but I know my pressure washer oil hits at least 280f.

Those predators come with forbidden glitter in them. The most excessive break-in procedure I've heard of is run the 1hr and 23minute break-in. Where you put oil in it, run it for 3 minutes, turn it off and change the oil. Run it again for about 20 minutes, change oil. Then run it for an hour or...

It was felt.

Yeah but they're tiny. I did an experient where I took a brand-new predator 459cc ran it, decided I'd add a filter. The oil was quite glittery. I added a hydraulic filter without changing oil on I believe the ratios were 1000=20 and 75=12 rated for 10 so it's probably stopping most of the metal...

IF I see any metal it's automatic combustion grade, that means burn it and not in an engine, like I soak fire wood in it. I can't see any metal in the oil that comes out of my wife's car or the dodge. Stuff that has metal in it is oil that comes out of mowers without oil filters, diffs...

Free fuel.

If I have no idea what I'm doing then why is it working so well? Its saving money and reducing the used oil I have to eventually get rid of. That was the only point. If you're going to be replying to yourself have your alter ego or yourself wait more than an hour between replies, makes the...

Oh it definitely is I sent off the title to get the salvage one. So how does that matter? It seems you do care. I think you have posted on here a dozen times so far. If you hate this you're really going to hate my generation 2 reclaim oil.

What are you talking about I've never done a UOA? I do them almost every oil change on my wife's car. Most of the reclaim oil I use come from her car. Here's the UOA I never did on my wife's car. An example of oil that I do reuse...

I'd rather not. I mowed the yard at our rental house July 2nd during a down pour because if I didn't do it right then it wasn't getting done for another week. It had been raining every day I tried for the previous week. Should have done it during one of the mist or light rain days, oh well. No...

Once word gets out that someone fixes mowers then people give you their junk ones or give one that's burning oil or running poorly in trade to fixup their presumably better one.

I drove a 600 mile trip for the big Juneteenth holiday. Then another 300 today. Seems 75w-85 is sufficient to avoid at least immediate failure.

Already did. Drove it easy for 9 miles. Dumped it, filled it with a half quart of 90w-140 and a quart of mobil1 75w-90 because that's what was open. Then drove it 300miles 2 days ago and will drive it another 300 miles here in the next 2 or 3 days. Only about 1qt came out when I drained the old...