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I don't see what the issue is here? You seem to know the solution but don't want to get involved. Did I read that right? You know that all these fluid MFGs are producing a critically flawed product yet they advertise the opposite, and you are not interested in doing anything about it?

You really need to send this info to HPL as they are supposedly a mfg of high performance lubricants but they are obviously missing the mark. I'm sure Amsoil, Red Line, Motul and others would be shocked to find out how poorly they perform. Maybe a class-action is in order?

Everytime I clean magnets the material is black as pitch.

Quality fluid MFGs, the world over, produce ATFs for intended applications. The transmission and automotive MFGs spend significant effort developing the technology and test for durability and reliability. Yes? Does this make sense? How many of these MFGs recommended "fixing" or "enhancing" the...

I suppose you could say the same for Seafoam, MMO, WD40 or any other number of additives or supplements. Everyone seems to have their own trick that they're attached to.

Sounds like you've been keeping up on your maintenance. Have you ever had the pan off? You might find a clue as to what's happened.

Have you ever cleaned a transmission magnet before? What colour is that material?

It's got nothing to do with the full-flow filter, the magnets are the primary source for wear metal removal from the fluid. Most of the particles captured by the magnets will go right through the filter unless you have a bypass / kidney filter that is effective down to ~1 micron. Have you ever...

Have you had the pan off for cleaning? Once the magnets load up they stop being effective (filtering).

Fluid changes are never detrimental except for disposal and fluid costs / logistics. Old, worn out fluid gets corrosive, loaded with metal and has lost its friction properties. It's basically grinding / polishing compound. Do yourself a favour and drop the pan to clean it and the magnets...

It's kind of like asking if all API SP 5w30 engine oils are the same. The answer is basically yes but also "it can get complicated" if you look too close. Most all ATs have same/similar components of varying design and build quality. Pumps, solenoids, wiring, connectors, valves, seals, gears...

I've had years of experience with this old, NS-2, Nissan CVT application. My favorite fluid is Amsoil CVT (cheaper than Nissan and the higher viscosity holds up better when overheated) but I've had good results with several aftermarket CVTF as well as Valvoline Maxlife ATF in this CVT...

I would use the largest / best filter based on build quality and filter area. I'm slowly working on a search for a similar/same M20x1.5 filter for Nissan (7317 = Honda, Mitsubishi, Subaru, etc). I would use the same filter on all vehicles if possible.

Every other engine oil change until the fluid and magnets stay clean. Once the gearbox is broken in, AND clean, the fluid will go a long way, maybe even as long as the mfg recommended service. Running a tranny with dark fluid (grinding compound) is never a good idea. Or ... get it tested.

Exactly, yet the fluid was ... "recently changed it again at 221k, and it was black/super dark". Transmission fluid stays clear once the transmission is broken in and not overheated.

Dark transmission fluid is likely from metal wear and magnets that are already loaded with material, no longer cleaning.

Most corporations will let the consumers suffer as long as the directors are "sure" it will save / make money or market share. A well crafted class action lawsuit might temporarily change their decision. We all know that Nissan did no wrong with their CVT transmissions, they just extended...

I would drop the pan (is it possible on this one?) for cleaning (clean / add magnets) and then do a drain & fill at every/other engine oil change until it stays clean & clear. Then remove the pan after ~ a year for another cleaning / inspection.

I would do a second change after a tank of gas / 500 miles and inspect the filter. If it looks bad, repeat.

ATF additives are not recommended or required unless you know of a TSB from somewhere? Valvoline Maxlife ATF is already a fantastic fluid, no need to try and "fix" it. If you want something heavier or "better" I'd suggest Amsoil, Red Line, HPL or a TES 295/668 spec fluid...