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i have combo wrenches going to 2 1/4” and in metric kit stops at 34mm i believe. had to buy a bigger set for super duty track bar bolts.

interesting, i may dump my used Blue ATF from my truck into the accord when it comes time to send my 4l80 back to the builder. thanks!

i would be looking into aftermarket alternators. factory alternators may be 180-200amps but that is cruising RPM and not hot idle. Mechman can take care of you, they build probably the best aftermarket alternators. solid voltage is the key to long living amplifiers and speakers. high output...

in my case, my accord drinks more oil than it does gas so it got poured on top

20% drop in performance isn’t terrible. i’m in the camp that i don’t replace batteries until i can tell the vehicle is struggling to start. keep a nice set of cables in the truck and drive on!

while i’m all for flow rate, 3/8 ID can still do 2-3 GPM at 60 psi. 1/2” is good for 8ish gpm i think. 2-3GPM should be plenty of water for a washing machine.

anyone have any insight into the new Lucas green oil? it’s much thinner than it used to be.

PG XL based filters. you should be able to find them pretty cheap through rock auto. for the mobil 1 filter, they’re beginning to transition to a manufacturer that has a very similar build to a PG XL filter. i would go with a PG XL based filter aswell in that application to save costs. they’re...

HPL makes great fluids aswell as amsoil/redline and others. seems like you are a peach at a gathering, going on ignore.

for the GM, use dexron VI (i like the valvoline dexron Vi fluid) toyotas seem to like max life according to some (no experience here) for the honda, as others said use only DW1. only reason i dont have it in my 05 accord is because it fails to go into gear some mornings and slams into 3rd...

i have more than enough cooling (tru-cool 40k and mag hytec deep pan) arguably the best fluid for it from HPL (blue atf) and a OG Fram titanium FS8a in the cooler circuit for filtration. my accord (2005) has HPL green ATF, added external 8 row cooler and a OG Fram Ultra XG8a in the cooler...

mine came in with all 20 bottles!

operating in OEM fashion, the AC Clutch will cut out at 100% throttle. i think it’s a non-issue with RPM. sure everything has a finite designed life rotation wise but i’ve never replaced a bad AC compressor on a personal vehicle due to failure and i drive at very high rpm frequently.

keep a good air filter on the vehicle and inspect intake tract for dust. if it’s clean there is no real need for an early change. on LS motors i run OTS synthetic oil (ep versions) to 6k.

what is your reasoning against lubeguard? generally always positive feedback and endorsed by many shops.

all three of my vehicles have external spin on filters on the transmission cooling system. both of my accords are set up just like the two photos with the white filter, my truck is the black filter. between these three vehicles were well over 200k miles without an issue. FL1a or fram PH8a sized...

i dump lubeguard red in any transmission i service.

l this is a seperate portion of our business, i am not in that segment at all. i just know how it works. we do not handle ANY trucking, just supply.

have you gotten to cold start it again? i would change the oil filter just in case you have a faulty ADBV before signing off synthetic. Valvoline synthetic oils have quite a bit of moly in them and are traditionally very quiet in the valve train.

my recommendations in order of highest->lowest all recommendations also with a Premium Guard XL based filter, (Carquest Premium, Microgard select, PG XL and some others) if going euro: M1 0w-40 and M1 ESP 0w-30 if staying API: Valvoline EP HM 5w-30, Valvoline R&P 5w-30 and PUP 5w-30 the...