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Not like any of it will make a lick of difference anyways. Buy your gasoline where it's convienient and of good quality. Leave the politics to someone else. I might sound like I'm being ignorant to the goings on in the world, but I'm not...I simply refuse to let it concern me. If you think...

Originally Posted By: wannafbody So give your money to a US hating dictator like Chavez As opposed to giving it to the Middle East, where they just looooove Americans, right? It's just a dumb coincidence that the gasoline I choose to buy happens to be Citgo. I buy it because it has no ethanol...

Originally Posted By: adibigs Most of the vehicles of choice you guys own are junk, just use conventional oil. Whoa! Now there's the pot calling the kettle black! A Hyundai owner telling someone else he drives junk? Now that's funny!

I see no point in running a different filter than the OEM size. The miniscule increase in oil capacity isn't going to accomplish a thing. These engines already hold plenty of oil. On all the Jeeps I've owned, I always used the Mopar 5281090. It's worked the best for me. Second choice would be...

I won't run it just for the reason of the marketing. Any company that creates such a stupid ad campaign designed to attract the car-dumb lemmings is nothing I want any part of. To slap them in the face a little more, I've been using nothing but Citgo gasoline for the last month or so! As for...

Sea Foam looks to me a like a whole lot of nothing. Some alcohol, a light oil, and a little bit of solvents and cleaners. I do use it as a motor flush on engines that have had head or intake gasket failures though. Namely, the GM 3100/3400 V6. It helps get that last little bit of "mud" caused...

Your 1st gen CPI Vortec has a knock sensor. Unusual that it would spark knock on even premium fuel. Only thing that I can see causing this is a failed knock sensor, or base ignition timing incorrectly set, or a inoperative EGR valve.

Schaeffer's Neutra #131. Never left me disappointed. Smells like the old carburetor cleaner dip buckets they used to sell, but it works great! I noticed a vast improvement in the performance of my Jeep which was running perfectly prior to treatment. A few tanks afterwards, it's still got more...

I disagree with E10 dropping MPG by 10%. Simply put, this is saying that the ethanol has absolutely zero heat energy, which we know is not true. While there might be a slight MPG loss, 10% less is not believeable. My Jeep might lose at worst case scenario 1 MPG, but my fuel mileage is all over...

Ok, so here's a curve ball to throw at this thread... How does Schaeffer's Neutra compare to both? I use Neutra every now and then, and it seems to really help idle smoothness, and dare I say, provide a little more MPG and/or power. Schaeffer's products have always exceeded my expectation...

Here in WI, it's voluntary in all areas except the greater Milwaukee area which is required to use reformulated gasoline. Nevertheless, most stations do have 10% ethanol in all grades. My guess is so they can purchase cheaper sub-octane base gasoline then add the 10% ethanol to bring the octane...

I buy Citgo gasoline from one station in particular because it's the closest to me that does not contain ethanol. I couldn't care less what brand is on the pump, I run it for the aforementioned reason only. There's only one other gas station in town that has no ethanol in the 87 octane grade...

I used to own a '83 RX-7 with the 13B carbureted engine, and if I remember correctly, Mazda spec'd 20w50 for summer use. That's what I ran in mine...Typically Pennzoil yellow bottle. There was a company that remanufactured as well as modified and raced the Mazda rotary back then called Hayes...

I've been using Schaeffer's 7000 10W30 in my Jeep since I bought it used about a year or so ago. Even with relatively low miles (~60k) I still get the occaisional lifter clack on a cold start. It goes away within a few seconds. I haven't thought too much of it, because as was mentioned, the 4.0...

I have an old vintage 1973 Sno*Jet SST 440 that I've recently restored, and I used straight Lucas Oil Stabilizer in the chaincase. There isn't much of anything sealing it other than a couple flimsy rubber seals that had definitely seen better days. At first, I ran 80w90 and it leaked out within...

Originally Posted By: ToyotaNSaturn That dipstick commercial is so [censored] stupid! I can't find a single reason to actually use CE at $7.99 per bottle. Since that's in Amsoil & Schaeffer price range, one would do better looking away from the CE display and buying the oil from a smaller...

I was told by a tranny guy that these older-technology trannies aren't as picky about ATF as the fully electronic ones are. At one time they even used Dexron type fluid. Supposedly the only reason for the changeover to ATF+4 is for better cold weather pumpability and for less torque convertor...

I still have the 7/70 powertrain warranty, but the standard 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty has expired. I do drive a lot, but I've only just turned 29,000 on it. Doing a tranny service is a future thought (maybe around 40,000 or so) but I figured I'd get some firsthand knowledge for when the...

Hey all, just wanted to pick some brains about what I should run in my '04 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with the 42RE tranny. Chrysler of course says ATF+4 only, but I wanted to run Schaeffer's ATF which meets ATF+4 specs. Should I stay with genuine Mopar ATF+4, or is Schaeffer's as good if not better? I...

I've been using Schaeffer's products for some time now, and have never been dissatisfied. I've never really used the #132 in anything outside of a race engine simply because I feel it to be a bit overkill especially in an oil such as Supreme 7000. Mostly my engines are newer with lower miles, so...