Recent content by TwoC400s

Replacing passenger side CV axle on 2008 Prius. Tried yesterday, but couldn't get the axle out of the transmission. Came at again today was finally got it out.

It's the same with Mercedes, you have to have it "precisely" at 45C, otherwise I guess it just immediately goes thermonuclear 💥

Additional note, oil consumption since the most recent oil change is UP. Just had to add an entire quart at 679 miles.

These pics are the third charge of RNP.

Another update and another wildly loaded filter! Changed the oil a while ago, and just forgot to cut open the filter until yesterday. I changed the Oil on May 10th at 304,376 miles. So roughly 6 months and 2800 miles, I'll let the pics speak for themselves. As you can see, RNP is still...

I see news reports this morning that the Iranians are closing the strait again. At this point I feel like it's Schrodinger's Strait, or Superposition Strait. Don't look at it!

I'll never understand the oil futures market. Just a bunch of speculators buying contracts they never want filled, for a commodity they have no use for. Then they just "roll" that contract over and do it all again. Absolute madness. Meanwhile the spot price (you know, the price actual industry...

Summer's in full swing, throw the cheapest 15w40 conventional HDEO in there until you hit another 1-3000 miles or first start temps get chilly, and then like everyone else here said, go find a nice Euro spec oil (I'm a MB 229.5 guy myself).

The only draw back is its maximum operating temp is a little on the low side, but I would hope that most CV joints stay below 300F most of time.

In response to the topic at hand, wouldn't Chevron Black Pearl 1 work for inner CV joints? It's poly-urea, no metal solids, has EP additives, it's the right viscosity... seems like a match. I looked all over for GKN's inner joint grease sold as a stand alone product and couldn't find it. You...

I just wanted to let you know, while using Google gemini to research inner CV joint grease, it quoted your post almost verbatim when replying about why the inner joints need a specific grease.

I appreciate the effort. Yeah, at this point I've watched about a dozen videos or more trying to see what the clamps look like, and I've yet to see this style clamp anywhere. Google AI thought it was a band clamp from a chainsaw 🧐

So you think the bumps are just to give you a place to set your pliers to pull it tight? Why do auto manufacturers have to come up with new confusing ways to things we've been doing for decades??? I have never seen a properly squished Oetiker clamp fail, they're nearly fool-proof. Why deviate?

OK, hear me out. This is my working theory: The yellow line is the fulcrum point that cams the tail over, the blue line is the side of the notch that interfaces and locks over and onto the red line (they're both straight cut faces where the lines are drawn). But somehow I've got to get the end...

it's two clamps up above, here's a close up of the locking mechanism. I'm assuming I fold the blue side back towards red, and the small hump past the tall tabs (red side) locks into place in the cutout of the blue "tail".