Recent content by Timmastertech

That sure as heck looks like an overpressurization failure like a relief valve on the pump stuck.

When I have worked on the snapon truck and the cornwell truck in the past I generally make it a point to send each dealer a picture of me fixing their truck with other brand tools

may take a couple taps with a hammer if there is rust in the splines or something but shouldnt be any major force

Air hammer with a punch bit in the center of the steering shaft with the nut loose. I dont like using this method because you run the risk of damaging the column but you are about at the point where you need a column anyways so not much to lose here.

There was a guy on ebay that sold tools for those to lift the adjuster lever. I'll try to take a picture tomorrow of them if I can find them in my toolbox. Used to use them almost every day, rarely anymore. The other method to back off the brake adjuster is to knock out two wheel studs and...

With modern seals, no with the exception of some designs of compressor shaft seal. In the winter, if ambient temp is below about 40 degrees F (depends on vehicle) no matter what you do with the A/C switch the compressor isnt going to run. Many OEMs also use double or triple seals on fittings...

Nope. Last 3 rental cars I have gotten have had a change oil message. As long as there is oil on the stick I reset it so I dont have to look at it. If they dont care about their cars I am not going to either.

There is exactly 1 place in the a/c system that oil needs to be and that is in the compressor. Over the last 10-15 years the OEMs have been designing compressors with oil separators in them to keep the majority of the oil in the compressor. The reason for this is that as oil circulates through...

That was our shop oil for almost 10 years. Only reason we moved away from it was we lost our vendor for it and switched to quaker state. In the time we used it we did not see an engine failure on a vehicle we maintained.

By using the parts howitzer of course. A frequency math channel laid over the crank sensor pattern would prove beyond a shadow of a doubt whether the reluctor was moving easy peasy without ripping the timing cover off. I just watched a daves auto center video about a nissan not firing on one...

My grand marquis and my plow truck are the only vehicles I have ever bought that were not mechanics specials, but I am a professional so its no big deal. I generally buy cars cheap that need work, fix them and run them til they cant be fixed anymore. Other than my 03 grand marquis I have never...

the 5500xxxxx number on the back label is in line with SOPUS part numbering. All the quaker state oils I stock the part numbers start 5500xxxxx

A lot of that comes down to user. Im second owner on my 02 Suburban wiht 1/4 million miles on it. I bought it from the original owner and had serviced it since 50k. All the plastic is still intact and no interior squeaks and rattles.

Fasteners are not torqued in that manner in the automotive world. Anything that needs to be stretched is tightened in a torque plus angle method. Its exceedingly rare, though not unheard of, that there will be a wait period in a torque sequence but all that I have ever run across are wrench...

Nothing beats a Suburban IMO