Recent content by Silverback

It used to be that in that if you ran conventional you ran 15w-40 and if you ran synthetic then there was no 15w-40, so you ran 5w-40. Typically for me, it would be Rotella, T4 vs T6 (since you don't know how much of each there is in a synthetic blend if I felt like saving some money I would get...

Rotella T6 5w-40 I got a gallon of the stuff and will fill the balance with the VR-1 20w-50 that I have in the garage...

Went to the parts store today, anyone curious what I bought?

Oh why did I ever jump down this rabbit hole? Oh yea... because my oil pressure sender went wonky and started showing 0psi at idle and freaked me out. GRRRRr.... If I keep with this I'm going to start sounding like yvon_la (I still haven't figured his posts out) OTOH, I used to work at a...

Based on some more reading and some of the other recommendations here (a lot of 5w-40 here) this has sparked my curiousity: http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-03101-0W-40-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B00JGQLZSU Which is funny since I've never been a fan of castrol oil

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno OK, but the Delo I linked to is new and is not in wide distribution right now. It is stouter narrower viscosity range. But with your cam/spring info, I'd just go VR-1 and be done with it. I'm OK with your oil pressure. It's enough to get it everywhere in the...

So I'm also curious, do you guys feel my current oil pressure is sufficient to protect the engine to 7000rpm, with 30 weight (5w30), or do you guys feel that I need more pressure for a traditional V8 with newer oils? Seems like the recommendations that I currently have go half some 30weight...

To be honest, based on the current recommendations I'm tempted to use what I have in the garage for this oil change. I have almost 2 quarts of VR-1 in 20W-50, a couple of quarts of mobil 1 in 10w-30 and if I don't have 5 quarts I have some rotella left over from changing the oil in my...

Originally Posted By: Jetronic An A3/B4 oil Huh, what's a a3/b4 oil? Originally Posted By: yvon_la Not a flat plane crank I assume?it says potato when idling?just Learn a bit about electrostatic paint and basically do the reverse (polarity wise)and you should befine What HUH??? not flat...

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle Oil pressure & temperature gauges would be a good idea, think I would run a 10W30 HDEO in it, like Rotella T5 or Mystik JT-8, & see how the oil behaves at the track. You might be surprised at what the bottom end can handle, I've seen unmodified SBs go higher RPM...

Oh, I'm in the DC Metro Area, so temps get down to about 0*F once or twice a year, and typically as high as about 100*F in the summer. It does get driven across that range (we really don't get much snow that will totally leave the car parked)

Car- 80's Trans Am, sort of race car which gets used on the street a lot (most racing is drag racing with some autox/road course). A lot of >20 minute trips a couple times a week on the street, longest normal drive is 30-40min to the track. It does not see enough street miles to make any regular...

Originally Posted By: Clevy I do have an acetone/tc-w3 mix though that seems to help my equipment at work. I'm curious, what concentration?