AFAIK, that is what Restore and Protect, and Stiction Eliminator use.
At some level in their cleaning products
I bought 5 gallons box of Valvoline Restore and Protect from Walmart for $113, which is a decent price...
Couple things could be done, weld a nut to the damaged bolt head, or grind off the damaged bolt head and pull hub leaving bolt behind.
I prefer the weld idea as heating it will lengthen it and likely to come off.
Can also torch cut metal off, as in just melt the head off the bolt.
The loud hum has not come back since putting the original FORD IAC valve with 128,000 miles back on. I oiled it with synthetic engine oil and made sure it was not sticking. The replacement SMP IAC from Amazon, it's valve at rest was opened about 1/4" while the FORD IAC, its valve was almost...
I found videos on the EVR, it sends vacuum to the EGV
I now know how to reconnect the EGR to the EVR
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/115928-egr-vacuum-regulator-evr.html#:~:text=The%20EVR%20controls%20the%20position%20of%20the%20EGR,computer%20will%20turn%20on%20and%20off%20the%20EVR...
Not SVT
Is an automatic
Contour 1998 SE v6 2.5L
I would have to find the vin, why is that important?
Engine runs very smooth, smooth enough you don't even know it's running
It only ever has one code and it says EGR insufficient flow. And the reason is the tiny plastic vacuum line to the EGR has cooked itself to bits, disintegrated. The EGR valve can never open as it never gets a vacuum. Where ever the tiny plastic 1/8" width plastic vacuum hose goes, I don't know...
Today I oiled the old IAC valve and cleaned it. Put it back on and no hum yet.
The new one was a Standard Motor Products IAC, original was a Ford.
Parts are getting to be like garbage.
Returned to Amazon
A good way to know your engine oil level is low, when you around corners, the oil pressure light comes on, as the oil pickup in the oil pan gets uncovered.
We have an Isuzu trooper with no oil dipstick. Guess what, it leaks trans fluid, then guess what pains you have to go through to add more trans fluid. And then also guess what happens when it gets low and people keep driving it.
The trans fails earlier mileage than it normally would...
OK, it is working again, now the AC. I put the OEM original fan back in and it blows the right direction.
All the AC system pressures are normal.
I still throws out the annoying hum. I am wondering if the new IAC valve I put in is also DEFECTIVE.
I am thinking of oiling the original IAC valve...