Recent content by RRich

Y has the third brakelight above the rear glass, 3 has it below as pictured.

Wonder how this would work on faded black plastic trim.

Reminds me I need to do same with my silver Tundra.

Originally Posted By: Charlie2015 Am I the only one bothered by you saying 5/32" means 50% worn? You don't keep the tires until they are 0/32" Yes! The owner was wise to replace them at this point. At most they only had 2/32 life left.

I've never clayed glass but on painted surfaces water works just fine for me.

I just this week replaced the original on my 2009 CC.

How good a lubricant is that red drool? I went to grease the gearbox of my weedwacker and got only liquid so I poured that in. Figured it would be as good a lube as gear oil, right?

Instead of the "pipe bomb", there's a way to fool the warning light with a couple resisters. Look around on either of the Tundra sites. That said, I've learned to ignore the light.

Originally Posted By: Chris142 There are plenty of pics of USA made tools with simmiliar problems on garage journal Exactly. I've seen examples of worse quality on almost every brand.

How did you get the sludge out?

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The few air tool that I've disassembled all had sealed bearings inside. I see no purpose to oiling other than rust prevention.

The OP doesn't have a top flight engine. He has a GCV160, a lawn mower engine that has a belt driven plastic camshaft. I have seen a TON of these engines with broken plastic camshafts on pressure washers. They can't handle the load. They work fine on mowers but suck on pressure washers. I'm not...

That's what I had, "flaky metallic sheen". I tried filtering through triple thickness of paper towel hoping to reuse the kero but absolutely nothing got filtered out.

Yes I had to remove the "arse-end" to get to the fill plug. Drain plug was easy. I would have liked to split the case and clean everything properly but just not willing to put any more time into it. I'd still like to know if the metallic is normal.