Recent content by rearviewmirror

I was wondering if anyone knows the actual math formula for calculating fuel premix? I can do the sums, but I'm trying to understand the formula itself. Thanks!

Originally Posted By: Johnny Yamalube is made by a company most have never heard of but they are very big in making OEM products and doing private labeling for a bunch of companies including some of the major oil companies for their speciality items. The name of the company is Life Automotive...

First off... who makes Yamalube? (I assume it's just a rebranded oil from one of the big oil companies.) Second, I have a 2009 Yamaha XT660R, it's a big thumper. The US never received this bike, but the engine is the same as the Yamaha Raptor 660 Quad. It's an Italian designed/made 660cc fuel...

If I don't have easy access to Amsoil would that be same as running Mobil1 synthetic 10W-30?

I just picked up an EU2000i Generator. It's got a Honda 100cc engine it. Any recommendations on oil for this? I would like to run synthetic for the sake of longevity, but is this a bad idea for this engine/application?

Originally Posted By: Dyoel182 Originally Posted By: drewjp Like stated above, your best bet is probably Mobil Clean 5000. Seconded. It does a great job at a great price. I third that, I don't have my UOA back yet, but I'd say it's done a good job at smoothing out an old Saturn I have...

Rotary engine owners do this quite regularly at 150:1 or 180:1 to make up for aging oil metering pumps. I've often wondered what effect this has on fuel injectors, and the fuel system in general. I mix a little bit into my Rx-7 tank as well, at around 8 fl oz for 16 gallons of fuel.

Well BMW has opted to put the twin turbo 300 HP engine in the car already so a diesel option at that power wouldn't hurt anything. European car makers don't play that stupid game worrying about engine sized like the failure american auto makers. Audi offers the same engines in cars from the A3...

Originally Posted By: buster Quote: literally drained the M1 in my car with only 500 miles on it. What a waste of good oil. I agree.. it's amazing what people will believe on the internets.

Originally Posted By: gtx510 I just mentioned that hoping someone would comment on how that blend would burn. Ashless? That just might be the key to why it is rotary compatible. Hopefully someone will provide some insight.

Originally Posted By: gtx510 Originally Posted By: rearviewmirror This company claims they have a Rotary Engine oil. http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_207.htm And they say it's a PAO/ester blend. Is it not?

This company claims they have a Rotary Engine oil. http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_207.htm Just curious.. Do you have a link to where M1 says not to use in a rotary?

Originally Posted By: meep 15w-40 rotella or any decent 10w-40. I'd avoid the syn. There's a fellow here in town who specializes in the RX-7. Rebuilds, Mods and silly engine swaps... He absolutely says to avoid the synthetics - reason was something obscure but he makes his living hopping up...

I'm trying to figure out which oils in the weight of 10W-40, 15W-40, and 20W-50 are lowest in ash. I'm only interested in mineral oil, but discussing synthetic is never a bad thing. :)

I'll have to see what my oil temp is in my Prelude. My ScanGauge shows that the water temp is always 198-202 regardless of ambient air temperature.