Recent content by linksep

Mine was usually the opposite; if I drove like my grandma it would BANG the 4-5 shift, but if I drove it like I was 20 years younger than I am, it would shift correctly. My wife kept complaining about me "driving like a teenager" and my response was that I "had to drive like that or it would...

I had* a '13 with the exact same problem. I will echo what others have said and say drain & fill at least twice again with Genuine Hyundai/Kia SP-IV-RR fluid with no additives. Take it to a dealer and have them reset/relearn the adaptive transmission control data and apply transmission software...

Are you sure that's the best major for you?

Splash lubed engines aren't lubed properly at reduced RPMs; running it slow will kill it quickly. I realize it's way too late now but I would have gotten the 212cc and run it at full speed, they're way quiet compared to a 1985 Briggs or Tecumseh and a simple sheet of plywood between you and the...

Wow, must have been bonkers cold! I pull-started snowblowers with 5w30 in them in MN for over 20 years before 0w30 became commonly available and never pulled one off the ground.

I put it back to the state it was in when it left the factory for long term storage. I don't want to mess around with exercising it monthly and I don't want to have the wrong oil in it when I need it. If I need it in August I don't want to have 0w30 and a tank of winter gas in it....if I need it...

In Birmingham I would say any modern (SN, SN-Plus, or SP) 10w30 synthetic gas engine oil or Rotella T6 diesel oil in either 5w40 or 15w40. Change oil every year (or maybe two) if it only runs 15 minutes a week for "exercise"; during an extended outage check oil level every morning and change oil...

For ice house duties use any name-brand synthetic 0w30 or 5w30 and make sure it stays full (check oil before starting every morning). (Amazon, NAPA, O'Reilly, & WalMart store brands also count as "name brand" oil.)

So far it has taken 2 years to accumulate 30 hours and it takes 1.5 qts with full pressure lubrication, a filter, and oil cooler? Put in literally anything marketed as motor oil with literally any API service grade from SH to SP and any multi-viscosity rating from 0w16 to 20w50 and change it...

What I did for my 212cc gen was this: Filled with Shell Rotella T4 15w40 because its what I had on-hand suitable for OPE in summer. I installed a magnetic dipstick, filled the 4-gallon gas tank approximately half full according to the built in gas gauge, tied on a cheap Tach/Hour-meter, and ran...

I broke in an off-brand 3500/4050 watt generator with the same Chinese Rato 212cc engine over the last two weekends. First oil fill was Shell Rotella T4 15w40 because its what I had. I installed a magnetic dipstick from "6061dude" on ebay, filled the 4-gallon gas tank approximately half full...

If I had a spin-on trans filter I wouldn't worry much (at all) about the sump filter. My bet is that the sump filter catches nuts, bolts, and rocks; the spin-on is where the real "filtering" happens. I'd say just get the dealer spin-on filter, stick a couple rare-earth magnets on it, and call...

Wouldn't it be faster, cheaper, and easier to run the forklift up to operating temp for 5 minutes a month instead of throwing away perfectly good oil?

I've been looking into auxiliary/external ATF filters for the last week or so (new-to-me vehicle with non-replaceable "window screen" internal filter). I noticed Magnefine's website claiming new filter due at the end of April... Does anyone have any info on this? I was considering the aluminum...

Guys, get over it! You are reminding me why I quit coming here! Not all miles are equal to all other miles. I figured I was driving nearly the easiest miles possible so I could go 2 OCI per FCI on a top-shelf-ultimate-premium filter (and only stretching the FCI by a measly 5k miles over the box...