Recent content by FordMan59

With Nissan's track record on CVT's I think ~$15 to change both filters was pretty cheap insurance. It also gave me the chance to see how much metallic material was on the pan magnets and clean them.

I'd either take it to another shop or do it myself. When I planned to change the CVT fluid/filters in my '16 Nissan Versa at 30K miles I spoke to the dealer about it and they told me they would change the fluid but they never change the filters. I ordered the fluid/filters online and did it...

During the course of an oil change interval in my Nissan Versa I sometimes see variations of 4-5 MPG from one tank to the next and 1-2 MPG variation isn't at all uncommon. Too many things effect fuel mileage to pin it on the oil in the crankcase. I usually use 15-20 year old 10w40 conventional...

I'm sure the mechanic I use when I need one marks up parts but it must not be much because he will also let you furnish your own parts which I usually do. In a case of furnishing your own parts he raises his labor rate from $55 per hour to $60 per hour to offset the profit on parts.

Speaking of Montgomery Ward, my dad ran their store branded tires for years without issues. He was told by one of their employees their tires were made by Kelly-Springfield. This was back in the '60's or 70's. The first set of tires I bought were Montgomery Ward raised white letter tires, Road...

If you're worried about them matching remove both wiper arms, sand them and give them both a rattle can paint job. Personally I'd probably use a flat black.

My biggest concern if the cluster has been changed is whether the mileage on the odometer is accurate or not. Years ago I had a speedometer go bad. It was replaced under warranty with a new cluster but the new speedometer was set at 000000.0 miles when installed instead of the 014XXX.X miles...

In that case they'll just take the motor and/or batteries.

After having a water heater leak in 2017 that caused about $25K in damages I'd turn the water off to the house. Just cutting off the water supply to the water heater and cutting power doesn't protect you from other leaks that could happen. My uncle and aunt came home from vacation one time...

I use Hoppe's 9 for cleaning and 3 in 1 oil for lubrication. A can of 3 in 1 is cheap and lasts me for years. I'm sure a drop or two of good ole 10w40 would work too.

I can't speak for this model because I've never shot one of them but some Taurus handguns have a long trigger pull before it breaks and fires and takes a little getting used to. I have a Taurus PT709 Slim that's that way and it took me a while to get used to it. I've had the 709 for several...

10w40 will be fine in SC winters. I used it for years while living in the Charlotte, NC area. I am now in southwestern KY where it gets much colder but I'm still using 10w40.

I'm never using mine during 0* weather, only in the spring and summer so giving it a couple seconds to expel the water from the pump after use has worked fine in my case. It's not uncommon for us to see temperatures from single digits to negative single digits.

I when I finish using my electric I disconnect the hoses then turn the unit on for about a second or two to pump the access water out of the pump. I've always stored it in non climate controlled conditions without any issues.

I've ran into a couple issues with the IRS over the past 45 years and have always sent the proof to clear up the issue through the USPS. If it were me I'd send the proof in with a copy of their letter but be sure to keep copies for yourself.