Recent content by folzag

Heh. Thanks. Apparently too busy reading the fine print, and missed the big print staring me in the face.

I notice QuattroPete's photo shows SN, while SLO's shows SL. Really old stock? Also, fwiw, description fine print at Walmart's website states SN.

Originally Posted By: timeau Amsoil has just 1634 ppm of calcium? This is Mid-SAPS oil, right? So the TBN started from 8 instead of almost 12 in Mobil1. You are comparing apples with oranges. Well, it's not completely apples and oranges. They are both the recommended weight and grade for my...

Originally Posted By: Leonardo629 OP: you said M1 costs half as much as Amsoil? Yes. The AMSOil was a shop oil change, so perhaps there's extra mark-up I'd not have to endure if I were buying it myself, but AMSOil was $109 for 10 qts and M1 was $52, minus $12 if my MIB comes through, for the...

Originally Posted By: Brybo86 Really all it boils down to is wear. Example Oil A gave 50ppm iron and still has a TBN of 4 Oil B gave 12ppm and has a TBN of 0 Which oil did better? Oil B For my non-hypothetical situation, TBN is important to me because, while it turned out I drove a lot this...

Originally Posted By: Benito Was it noisier as well? Not that I ever noticed.

Compared to the prior interval, this one was about 4 months shorter, slightly more cold weather starts, and more loaded miles. Comparing to AMSOil: no shear, stayed in-grade for a 40wt. TBN held up better, I suspect owing to a higher starting level. No make-up oil. But, perhaps all for naught...

"Here it's asking me to enter my U-verse Key Number which is 7837432115:" Are you absolutely certain that key number is your wireless passcode? If wired is working, you should be able to go into the router's settings and double-check it.

"He said my PowerBook uses the WEP network, but the router is using a more advanced encryption network called WPA2." That's what I was just about to say. If you know how to do it, you can confirm this is the problem by turning off encryption on the U-verse router and seeing if the Powerbook is...

Greetings, another data point for those interested... Based on things I'd passed along from reading threads here at BITOG, and David Newton in particular, my brother (lives in southern IN) decided he wanted to give a 30 weight a try in his '97 7.3L HEUI. He ended up getting some M1 5W30. He...

Originally Posted By: wymi516 I'd go 2 years and change it right before winter. Summer does not effect oil wear, winter does. Therefore you'd want to change oil right after winter as that's when it has been "worked." Changing in the spring, you'll have fresh oil spring, summer and fall in...

For all practical purposes, time in the sump absolutely does not matter. What does matter, and what you didn't mention was how those 1500 miles are attained. If it's 5 miles/day ~300 days a year, you very likely need to change it annually. If it's 1500 miles over the course of 20-40 driving...

Originally Posted By: Garak Very nice. With respect to TBN, didn't Blackstone recently change their TBN methods? Yes, that's what I was thinking as well. Dave, thanks for sharing your work. You've answered the one question that's been nagging me for years, how important is time in sump? Seems...

I saw some yesterday at the Charlottesville, VA, Walmart. They had both 5w-20 & 5w-30. $27 and change for the 5qt jug.

Originally Posted By: EastCoastHD I'm thinking of going the Blackstone recommended 2000 mile OCI and retest to see if the test was an anomaly. Then return to stock tune and retest again. Occam's Razor suggests the tune is the culprit. As others have said, the fastest, most direct route is to...