Recent content by Fabulous50s

Many FWD transaxles don't use a pilot bearing/bushing.

Always resurface the flywheel. Always replace rear main seal, Always replace release bearing. Always clean, inspect, and grease all pivot points on release fork. Anything less is hack work. Think about 180k miles. Its done its time.

Id imagine time, more than miles, takes it's toll on the belt. Many miles in a short time the belt would make it to 250k, but in 15 years?

Stiff hydraulic clutch could be the master or slave cylinder. Throwout (release) bearing sticking on the input shafts collar. All of these should be very easy to check now that you have the transaxle out. Did it get progressively worse as time and miles went on?

Pressure testing cooling system for 15 minutes would reveal a lot. If that passes, then look for blockages in cooling system, radiator or hoses coming apart internally. See if lower radiator hose gets hot, then if cooling fans work.

I started a thread about FS vs ESP actually for general DOHC chain driven engines. I think I have about 50qts of FS in my hoard, I'll try ESP on the next OCI. I have a lot of engines which I can use the FS in still. I may need to thin out the stash....

85 psi and a known issue with leaking oil filter adapters..... Surprised me that the oil pump didn't go into lower pressure mode with pressures that high.

Chrysler Pentastar in my work van. I connected a scan tool for an unrelated radiator fan issue. Looking at live data I discovered 83psi oil pressure on a 45F cold start. The 2 speed oil pump always seems to be in high volume mode below 1100 RPM. Normal operation oil temp is 195F and idle oil...

PP 5w-30 while under warranty, then M1 FS 5w-40. All on 5k OCI with filter every other OCI.

2020 ProMaster 2500 81,000 miles. Did intake cam/rockers/lash adjusters on bank 1 and exhaust cam and accessories on bank 2. Had only planned on oil filter adapter as it was leaking. Noticed valve cover Gaskets starting to weep, so pulled those and saw cam lobes with this wear. Easy job...

I've had a lot of engines apart in my life. Many motorcycle, a few small engines, and lots of automotive engines. This is the first ive ever seen with a single lobe cam. The "rockers" are stamped at different angles which make the exhaust and intake valves open at different times. Kind of genius...

Yes, wasn't able to get a decent picture, but the teeth looked like new. In fact the belt looked perfectly new. Suprising the plastic cam with only one lobe does show slight wear. Camera couldn't capture that. I removed valve cover to adjust valves due to constant tick while running. I thought...

Just did a valve lash adjustment on GCV 160 on a push mower I bought new around 2010. I'd estimate it has 150 hours on it. Just use it for trimming around trees etc. Intake valve was at .006in which is the spec, and exhaust valve was at .011 (.008 is spec). Surprised at the belt looking...

Oh man..... now I'm feeling old.....

If ours hadn't rusted away we would br very likely still driving it. The oil culprit was valve guide seals. Other than brakes and tires, I never put another part in it. Had just under 200k when Honda bought it back.